And how to plant your own modern-day victory garden in Zone 7a

The price of eggs.  The cost of lettuce. The quiet recalculating at the checkout line.

Food has become a conversation again.

Not just in the way we talk about recipes or restaurants, but in the way we talk about systems—supply chains, unpredictable weather, transportation costs. Even those of us who once rarely considered how strawberries made it from field to fridge are more aware of the fragility behind the abundance.

In moments like this, planting a seed can feel quietly radical.

We are not going to outgrow the global food system in our backyards. But growing even a little food reconnects us to participation instead of passivity. It is, in many ways, a modern-day victory garden—not born of wartime rationing, but of awareness, resilience, and intention.

And here in Zone 7a, where our growing season stretches generously from April through October, even a modest effort can yield surprising abundance.

A Garden That Fits Your Real Life

A modern victory garden does not require a sprawling yard. It might be a single raised bed, a row along a fence, or a cluster of containers gathered on a sunny patio.

Start by asking a practical question: What do we actually eat?

If your family goes through bags of salad greens each week, lettuce is a natural choice. If pasta night requires fresh basil, grow basil. If your children snack on cherry tomatoes straight from the carton, plant a compact tomato variety in a five-gallon bucket.

Zone 7a is particularly forgiving.

Once the threat of frost passes—usually by mid- to late April—warm-season crops thrive. Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, and green beans all perform beautifully in our long summers. In early spring and again in late summer, cooler crops like lettuce, spinach, kale, Swiss chard, and radishes step in.

What many gardeners don’t realize is that we essentially get two growing seasons here: a spring run and a fall encore. If something falters in May, there is often another opportunity in August.

If You Only Have a Patio

Let’s remove one of the most common perceived barriers: you do not need land.

A patio that receives six to eight hours of sunlight can support two tomato plants in large containers, a pepper plant, a trough of lettuce, and a pot of basil. Strawberries trail beautifully over the edges of planters. Herbs thrive in contained spaces.

The most important decisions happen before you even plant. Use quality potting soil rather than scooping from the yard. Make sure containers have drainage holes. Accept that containers will require more consistent watering, especially in July’s heat. Feed them lightly once a month.

That small cluster of pots will not feed your household year-round. But it will noticeably supplement your summer meals, trim your grocery runs, and deepen your understanding of seasonality.

If You Have Space for a Raised Bed

A single 4-by-8-foot raised bed can be surprisingly productive when planted thoughtfully.

Rather than traditional long rows, think in terms of efficiency. Two well-staked tomato plants along the back edge.
A few peppers nearby. Lettuce tucked into corners. Basil planted between tomatoes, where it appreciates the warmth. A simple trellis allows cucumbers or beans to grow upward rather than sprawling outward.

Vertical growth changes everything in a small space.

Raised beds also offer control—better soil, clearer boundaries, easier weeding. And they need not be elaborate. A simple framed structure set over cardboard to suppress grass works beautifully. It does not need to be permanent to be meaningful.

Teaching Children Where Food Comes From

If you have children, invite them in early.

Let them choose a plant at the nursery, hand them a small trowel, and give them ownership over watering. Celebrate the first harvest together—even if it’s just a handful of cherry tomatoes.

There is something transformative about watching a child pull a carrot from the soil and realize vegetables begin in dirt. Gardening teaches patience in a world of immediacy. Seeds do not sprout because we want them to. Peppers do not ripen faster because we are hungry.

Plants operate on their own rhythm and that rhythm shapes gratitude, stewardship, and even shapes how children think about waste when they understand the effort behind what lands on their plates.

The Mental Health Case for Soil

There is research supporting what many gardeners intuitively know: tending soil steadies us.

The repetitive acts of planting, watering, and weeding regulate the nervous system. Time outside reduces stress. Watching something grow over weeks builds a quiet sense of progress that our fast-paced lives rarely provide.

But beyond research, there is something deeply grounding about the physicality of it.

You cannot rush germination. You cannot scroll while pruning. Gardening demands presence.

Morning watering becomes a ritual. Evening harvesting becomes a reflection. The work unfolds slowly, almost imperceptibly—and that slowness feels corrective in a culture built on urgency.

Start Smaller Than You Think

The biggest mistake new gardeners make is overplanting. A modern victory garden is not about ambition, but about sustainability.

If you are unsure where to begin, start with just three things:

• Two tomato plants
• One herb you use weekly
• A small patch or container of lettuce

Learn your sunlight patterns. Notice how quickly containers dry in midsummer. Observe what thrives and what struggles. Adjust next year.

Even a Little Still Matters

Growing food will not untangle global supply chains. It will not eliminate rising prices. But it will change your relationship to what’s on your plate.

A tomato picked warm from the vine carries context. You remember the tiny yellow blossom. The weeks of waiting. The afternoon you worried you had forgotten to water.

And in a season when so much feels abstract and overwhelming, there is deep comfort in something tangible: You planted it. You tended it. You watched it grow.

Whether it’s a backyard bed or a single pot on a patio, even a little still matters.  

Birds You’ll See This Spring

s winter loosens its grip and daylight stretches a little longer each evening, Central Virginia’s soundscape begins to change. The hush of cold months gives way to birdsong—clear whistles, chatter from the hedgerow, and rhythmic tapping from nearby trees. March and April are prime months for spotting familiar feathered neighbors as they establish territories, build nests, and feed hungry mates and hatchlings.

Whether you’re watching from a kitchen window, strolling a neighborhood trail, or working in the yard, these are the spring regulars you’re most likely to see—and hear—this time of year. Here’s how to recognize them, where they tend to gather, and what brings them back season after season.

Eastern Bluebird (photo above)

Habitat: Open yards, fence lines, meadows
Behavior: Nesting, insect hunting, gentle warbling
What attracts them: Nest boxes, open grassy areas, mealworms

Few birds signal spring quite like the Eastern bluebird. Males arrive early, often in late winter, flashing their brilliant blue backs as they perch on fence posts or low branches. Bluebirds favor open spaces where they can swoop down to catch insects emerging from warming soil.

By March, pairs begin nesting—often in cavities or birdhouses placed at the edge of lawns or fields.

Unlike many backyard birds, bluebirds aren’t frequent feeder visitors, but a well-placed nest box and a supply of mealworms can make your yard irresistible.

American Robin

Habitat: Lawns, parks, wooded edges
Behavior: Ground foraging, dawn singing
What attracts them: Soft soil, fruiting trees, open lawns

Robins are often among the first birds people notice in spring, thanks to their bold orange chests and early-morning songs. They’re most active on the ground, cocking their heads as they listen for earthworms beneath the soil.

In March and April, robins are busy feeding and scouting nesting sites in trees and shrubs. While they’ll visit feeders occasionally, they’re more interested in berry-producing plants like holly and serviceberry—and freshly turned garden beds where worms are easy pickings.

Northern Cardinal

Habitat: Shrubs, gardens, wooded neighborhoods
Behavior: Singing, pair bonding, territorial displays
What attracts them: Dense shrubs, sunflower seeds

Year-round residents, cardinals become especially noticeable in early spring. Males sing persistently from treetops, announcing territory and courting mates. Their bright red plumage stands out against still-bare branches, making them easy to spot.

Cardinals prefer thick vegetation for nesting and cover, so layered landscaping with shrubs and small trees is ideal. They’re also reliable feeder birds, favoring sunflower seeds scattered on a platform or tray feeder.

Carolina Chickadee

Habitat: Wooded areas, mature yards
Behavior: Constant movement, cavity nesting
What attracts them: Trees, suet, sunflower seeds

Small but endlessly energetic, Carolina chickadees flit through branches in tight-knit pairs, calling their distinctive “chick-a-dee-dee-dee.” In early spring, they begin inspecting cavities—both natural holes and nest boxes—for nesting.

Chickadees are among the friendliest backyard birds, often returning repeatedly to feeders stocked with sunflower seeds or suet. Leaving dead trees or snags (when safe) can also provide valuable nesting sites.

Red-winged Blackbird

Habitat: Creeks, wetlands, ponds, open fields
Behavior: Territorial singing, flocking
What attracts them: Wetland vegetation, open water edges

If you live near water, you’ll likely hear red-winged blackbirds before you see them. Males perch atop cattails or fence posts, flashing their red-and-yellow shoulder patches while delivering a distinctive, buzzy call.

These birds are among the first migrants to return in late winter and early spring. They favor marshy areas and field edges, especially near creeks and retention ponds. While they may visit feeders occasionally, natural wetland habitat is their biggest draw.

Woodpeckers: Downy & Red-bellied

Habitat: Wooded yards, tree-lined neighborhoods
Behavior: Drumming, insect foraging, cavity nesting
What attracts them: Mature trees, suet feeders, dead wood

Woodpeckers bring a different rhythm to spring—literally. Their drumming echoes through neighborhoods as they establish territories and communicate with potential mates.

The downy woodpecker, the smallest in North America, is a frequent backyard visitor, often spotted clinging to tree trunks or suet feeders. The larger red-bellied woodpecker is equally common, known for its rolling call and bold presence.

Both species benefit from mature trees and standing dead wood, which harbor insects and provide nesting opportunities. Suet feeders placed near tree trunks are a reliable way to draw them closer.

Creating a Spring-Friendly Yard

You don’t need acres of land to enjoy spring birdlife. Simple choices—planting native shrubs, leaving seed heads through winter, offering fresh water, and avoiding pesticides—can transform even a modest yard into a seasonal haven.

March and April are a time of renewal, not just for plants but for the birds that depend on them. As you step outside this spring, pause and listen. Chances are, one of these familiar voices is already welcoming the season back.

By: Ashleigh Meyer / Photos Courtesy: Poplar Forest

When we think about archaeology, most of us probably have a similar image come to mind: Sand swept deserts, long-buried pottery, delicate bones. At Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest, archaeology is paramount to the preservation and restoration efforts of the property, but it often takes on an unexpected appearance.

Dr. Eric Proebsting has been a key part of the archaeological efforts at Poplar Forest since 2008. Much of his attention has focused on reconstructing Jefferson’s original landscape. Proebsting and a team of six other archaeologists slowly uncover layers of earth looking for evidence that they have reached the Jefferson-era. But they rarely uncover large artifacts. Instead, subtle clues in the soil tell them when they have hit their mark. Changes in soil color and density reveal long hidden planting sites. Plate fragments and other sundries once tossed out a kitchen window to the compost help to date the dig location.

Even the Jefferson layer itself reveals that the president tinkered with his design plan, making changes as the Virginia climate rejected his original vision or he didn’t like the way something looked.

In true Jeffersonian fashion, science and technology play a key role in rediscovering the original landscape. Phytoliths are trace minerals left over in decaying plant material that reveal important information about grass types, specifically if a grass preferred shade or sun. Through the study of these phytoliths, Proebsting’s team has been able to identify where clumps of trees were once planted. Pollen testing can give us clues about environmental changes and planting sites, and in the case of Poplar Forest, trace amounts of mulberry pollen were discovered in the archaeological layer, pointing to the species that had been planted there which was echoed in Jefferson’s own notes.

The property, once around 5,000 acres in size, was meticulously designed by Jefferson to serve as both a productive agricultural plantation, and as a retreat where he could clear his mind, collect his thoughts and enjoy intellectual pursuits. He was influenced heavily by the large, grandiose English gardens that he witnessed during his travels with John Adams, as well as contemporary landscape design. A shift had occurred by the end of the 18th century as designers turned from the rigid, symmetrical layouts that were popular previously and started creating spaces that reflected a more natural landscape. Observers can see Jefferson balancing these two ideals in his own plans for Poplar Forest.

A ten-acre square around the octagonal Retreat House was reserved for ornamental plantings where Jefferson explored his interest in landscape design. While Jefferson was the visionary, it was enslaved labor that brought it to life. Even while Jefferson was away at Monticello, traveling abroad, or otherwise absent, work on Poplar Forest continued in accordance with his design. The cobblestone carriage circle at the front of the retreat house was hand-dug and laboriously laid with stone, as revealed by the original road surface which had been excavated as part of the archaeological work on the property. Thanks to generous support from the Garden Club of Virginia, the original Jefferson-era road is protected under a new cobbled surface and a viewing box allows visitors to see underground, into the original cobbles.

While there is not an overabundance of source material to draw from, Jefferson did keep some notes on his landscape plans for Poplar Forest. We know that oval-shaped beds were placed on both sides of the north lawn of the retreat house, as well as directly in front of the home. During Proebsting’s excavation of the front lawn, archaeologists were able to identify the outline of the oval beds, as well as the remnants of planting holes where roses were once grown. Drawing on the gardening books known to be in Jefferson’s library, as well as what was planted at Monticello and accessible to the Poplar Forest plantation, antique roses were replanted in the oval beds and have now grown to be about the size that Jefferson likely would have seen during his lifetime.

Considerable work has been done to restore the double row of paper mulberry trees on the west side of the house, which would have provided shade to the porch as well as visual intrigue. Among other things, the particular species speaks to Jefferson’s interest in studying plantlife across the globe and bringing it home to test in the Virginia soil.

The clumps of trees near the front of the home have also been a large part of the archaeological restoration and reveal an intriguing fact about the third president. In 1812, Jefferson ordered four clumps of trees to be planted at the corners of the house. Species included black locust, tulip poplar, redbud, dogwood, and calycanthus shrubs, among others. The intention was for it to appear very natural, in keeping with the modern design ideas of his time. However, also in the same month it is noted that Jefferson borrowed a surveyors chain from a neighbor; a 66-foot length of chain used for mapping purposes. Despite his plan to make the tree clumps appear very natural, the trees are spaced at a precise 33-foot distance from one end to the other. He never could completely shake his love for symmetry, mathematics, and geometry.

His interest in Palladian symmetry served to create one of the largest and most noticeable geographic features on the property which remain clearly visible today. Two large mounds flank the east and west sides of the house, creating a sort-of visual frame and uniting the ornamental grounds with the built architecture. The dirt to create the mounds was removed from the south side of the house, where a large sunken lawn also creates visual intrigue. Archaeological investigation has suggested that the lawn was planted with geometric rows of shrubs and ornamental trees, while the mounds were adorned with willow trees and aspen to create an almost Greco-Roman oasis.

The digging of the rear lawn was carried out by enslaved laborers, with an enslaved man named Phill Hubbard leading the project. Hubbard had been born at Poplar Forest and often travelled back and forth from Monticello to work on various projects at both estates. Jefferson had inherited 11 enslaved individuals along with the property in 1773, and the number grew to just below 100, with the population ebbing and flowing over the course of his lifetime. In addition to bringing Jefferson’s ornamental vision to life, these enslaved individuals also labored in the agricultural fields. A project on the horizon for 2026 is the excavation of one of the quarters where enslaved people lived on the property, including their subsistence gardens, fence lines, and other archaeological data.

Restoring the landscape to its original grandeur is interesting and inspiring, and reveals a lot about Jefferson’s thought process and mind. However, Dr. Proebsting and the whole team at Poplar Forest is driven by more than a desire to create a beautiful landscape.

“It’s about people,” he said. “About all the people who lived here at Poplar Forest.”

His ultimate vision is to draw connections between modern day visitors and the folks who lived, worked and died on the grounds. With little written record of their day-to-day lives, archaeology is the looking glass that allows us to peer into the past and set our eyes on the actual evidence that remains of their lives and legacies, even if it is sometimes as quiet as a whisper, or as delicate as a change in the color of the earth.

Inside Lynchburg Parks and Recreation’s Volunteer-Driven Program to Restore Native Ecosystems

By: Anna Eileen White / Photos Courtesy: Lynchburg Parks & Recreation

Honeysuckle’s sugary notes often signal its presence long before you can see it. But, despite its graceful appearance and aroma, its story is complex. Japanese honeysuckle and amur honeysuckle are both common in the Lynchburg area—too common, it turns out.

Neither species is native, and along with plants such as wineberry, autumn olive, bull thistle, and Japanese stiltgrass, they pose significant problems for native ecosystems. Considered invasive, they spread quickly, choking out native plants. The result: degraded soil health, altered wildlife habitats, and poor air and water quality.

Much like kudzu as it envelops hillsides and forests, the damage is not isolated or minimal, though it may be less visible if you’re unsure how to identify invasive species.

“You’re going to see them everywhere,” said Lynchburg Parks and Recreation Park Services Manager Howard Covey, explaining that invasive species are not a new problem in Lynchburg.

“It’s been an issue for a while. We’ve tried to address it as we were rebuilding, remodeling, or making park improvements, but obviously, resources and power are never going to be adequate through the city using just staff to control it.”

As the threat of invasive species grew over the years, so did efforts to combat the problem.

“We were bouncing around ideas on how we can get on top of this and we settled on building a sustainable volunteer corps, similar to the Master Gardeners, Master Naturalists, or Tree Stewards,” said Covey.

In 2024, ReviveLYH was born, and is now galvanizing volunteers dedicated to tackling the issue.

Led by Public Works operations coordinator Jerry Whitmore, ReviveLYH is part of Lynchburg’s Department of Public Works Sustainability and Environmental Initiatives. It operates in conjunction with Explore Nature by Nurture, an LLC founded by Danielle Racke who is passionate about helping educators facilitate outdoor learning.

Though they’re currently concentrating efforts at Ivy Creek Park, ReviveLYH hopes to expand across the city as they build a sustainable infrastructure and recruit more volunteers.

“There was an issue with invasive species there when the park was built,” Covey said of the Park. “We chose that spot to begin with because it’s one of the newer parks in the system. It’s also designated as the Nature Park, and we felt it would be a good place to start because there were a lot of different types of invasives in there, so it would be a good training spot in order to teach people how to map and how to identify what’s invasive compared to what’s native.”

With over 100 volunteers stepping up since the program’s launch and 300 hours spent on pilot projects and education, the progress is tangible. A 0.6-acre hillside located on the northwest side of Clemmons Lake at Ivy Creek Park has seen the bulk of volunteer efforts. Overgrown with invasive amur honeysuckle, autumn olive, and oriental bittersweet, native plants on the hillside needed room to breathe. In fall 2025, 76 volunteers spent 211 hours removing invasive species and restoring the habitat there.

“We have already seen some native vegetation springing up where we have cleared autumn olive this fall, which is very promising,” shared Lynchburg Parks & Recreation volunteer coordinator Jamey Love. “Eventually, our goal is to net 2080+ volunteer hours a year to tackle the work at Ivy Creek Park, as well as some of the other invasive species in other parks.”

Covey says invasive plant management is an ongoing process. “It’s one of those things that will never be completely finished,” he explained. “That’s why we recruit people who have it as a passion.”

With volunteers hailing from local colleges, businesses, nature organizations, and more, coordinating the effort is a multi-step process. Volunteers first undergo training on herbicide application, plant identification, and vegetation removal. After training, they can participate in field workdays, serve in administrative roles, and help with vegetation mapping. As vegetation is documented in a geographic mapping system, volunteer groups will eventually operate with more independence, accessing the maps through an app to guide and track their work. Finally, when a field workday rolls around, everyone gets their hands dirty uprooting invasive species and cultivating native species as plants or seeds.

“It doesn’t do any good to pull the invasives out unless we’re putting natives back in,” said Covey. “The invasives are notorious for spreading quickly and choking out a lot of the natives, and that’s why it’s really important to go back in there with those native plantings as soon as we can after getting rid of the invasives.”

Though hillsides, forests, and hedges across the city call for ReviveLYH’s attention, and new projects continue to sprout as they work, Covey is optimistic. “We’re making a lot of progress,” he shared. Enthusiasm is growing among outdoor-lovers who care about the environment or even want to learn about managing invasive species on their own property. “The responses have been overall positive,” Covey explained. “People are excited that we’re trying to put together this effort.”

As momentum spreads through word of mouth and social media, Jamey Love, Volunteer Coordinator for the Lynchburg Parks and Recreation, says they’re grateful for the support of past and present volunteers and welcome inquiries, “We are interested in working with all curious citizens,” she shared. “The more interest we receive, the more education we can offer, and the more we can do.”

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How Lynchburg Grows Is “Planting Seeds” to Feed and Impact our Community

by: Megan L. Horst | Photos Courtesy: Lynchburg grows

Lynchburg Grows has been serving the community for nearly 21 years. Their seven-acre urban farm offers meaningful job opportunities for individuals with disabilities, while also providing fresh, local produce to the community, restaurants, and organizations.

“Our mission is to work with the community to provide access to healthy food, and then also to provide purposeful jobs to people with disabilities,” said Shelley Blades, executive director of Lynchburg Grows. Currently, they have five paid farmers and two farm coaches who assist with harvesting and farm chores.

“Their coach is there to help answer any questions they may have, make sure everything is being done properly, and that they are doing their job safely,” Blades explained. Farm coaches also work with the farmers to ensure they meet their work and personal goals.

Recently, Lynchburg Grows was one of the ten recipients of the Kubota Hometown Proud Grant® and was awarded $25,000 in cash and $25,000 in Kubota equipment. The grant was awarded to nonprofits nationwide that are making a positive impact on their local communities.

“The work they do to feed the Lynchburg community resonated with the spirit of the Kubota Hometown Proud grant program,” said local dealer Zach Jones, general manager of Kubota of Lynchburg. “Their application made it very clear that they needed the grant resources to be able to increase the number of people they feed, teach, and empower in our community for years to come. At the heart of it all is dependable equipment that is needed to scale the project and to power real change for the goals of their operation.”

 

Blades expressed that they were pleasantly surprised and excited to have been chosen for the grant.

“It’s really great because we get some Kubota equipment, which will be very helpful,” Blades said. “That will help us in all aspects of the farm. It will help us post-harvest moving produce around, not having to carry 50 to 80 pounds of tomatoes from one greenhouse to another.” The grant funds will be used to expand their operation. They also expect the funds to increase their produce output by 25 percent, enhance nutrition education and provide additional vocational training opportunities for individuals with disabilities.

“We are looking forward to reaching our community in different ways and expanding,” Blades said.

Lynchburg Grows additionally provides opportunities for youth in the community to learn and have fun. A portion of the grant funds will be used to expand their education greenhouse, which is solely dedicated to learning, and used for classes, field trips, and camps.

“This will be a space for students to explore and learn and play without interfering with the day-to-day farm operations,” Blades said. They hope to include a “tasting kitchen” in the learning greenhouse, allowing them to transition from planting to harvesting to tasting all in one space. In the summer, Lynchburg Grows hosts a variety of day camps for kids. At the week-long camps, participants have the opportunity to work alongside farmers with disabilities and harvest produce.

“They learn about plant cycles and planting and growing,” Blades said.

“They learn about nutrition, they’ll cook the food that they are harvesting, and so they get some cooking lessons. They also help clean up, so they’re learning to work together as a team and then also they help us with our donations.” Lynchburg Grows donates to many local organizations, including Park View Community Mission, Miriam’s House, Lynchburg Daily Bread, Connecting Point, and others.

“They [campers] help pack donations up so they’re learning philanthropy and why it’s good to give back to your community,” Blades shared.

 

A wide variety of produce is grown on their farm, which changes depending on the season. Currently, they are growing a variety of root vegetables, including turnips, beets, carrots, radishes, and leafy greens, as well as eggplant, beans, herbs, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, and more.

“We are lucky to be able to grow year-round,” Blades said. For members who join at the beginning of their growing season, in March, they can pick up their share on Wednesdays; however, their Farm Store is open to the public every Thursday from 9 a.m. through 1 p.m.

“We accept SNAP, which is great,” Blades said. They also participate in the Senior Farmers’ Market Nutrition Program, a government initiative designed to provide seniors with access to fresh produce.

“Lots of ways you can shop,” she said. Another way to support Lynchburg Grows is to volunteer at the farm. They are always looking for help with tasks around the farm.

“Not all of [the volunteer work] is really, really hard,” Blades said. “We can definitely modify it to each person’s abilities.”

Blades expressed that they are incredibly grateful to Kubota. The new equipment and funds will make a substantial impact on their operation.

“We are proud to have selected Lynchburg Grows for this opportunity,” Jones added. “And even more so to see what they’re able to accomplish with
our equipment.”

A Beginner’s Guide to Rewilding Your Landscape

For decades, a lush green lawn was the hallmark of a well-kept home. But more and more homeowners are trading in their turfgrass for something wilder—and more purposeful. Whether inspired by declining pollinator populations, increasing water bills, or the simple desire for a more beautiful and ecologically rich yard, rewilding is having a moment.

Rewilding your landscape doesn’t mean letting it go untamed. Rather, it’s a thoughtful process of transitioning away from traditional grass lawns to native plantings, meadows, or habitat gardens that support biodiversity and require fewer resources to maintain. If you’ve been eyeing your patch of grass and wondering how to begin, fall is actually the perfect time to start laying the groundwork. Here’s how.

Step 1: Start with a Plan

Before you dig in, take a step back. Consider how much of your yard you want to rewild—some people begin with just a corner or border, while others go all-in. Walk your property and note areas of full sun, part shade, drainage issues, or spots prone to foot traffic. These observations will influence the types of plants you choose.

Then, ask yourself a few key questions:
• Do you want a wildflower meadow, a pollinator garden, or a mix of native grasses and shrubs?
• How formal or natural should it look?
• Will you need to maintain some lawn for pets or play?

Sketching out a rough map or plan can help you visualize the change—and stick with it when the grass starts to go.

Step 2: Remove the Turf

Turfgrass is persistent. Removing it is the first and most labor-intensive part of rewilding. There are a few methods to consider:
• Sheet Mulching (Lasagna Method): Best started in fall. Lay down cardboard or newspaper directly over the grass, then top with layers of compost and mulch. By spring,
the grass will be smothered, and the soil will be richer.
• Sod Cutting: Use a sod cutter to remove grass manually. This provides an immediate blank slate but can disrupt soil health.
• Solarization: Place clear plastic sheeting over the area during the heat of summer. This “bakes” the grass and weed seeds, preparing the site for fall planting.

For small patches, a shovel and persistence may do the trick. For larger spaces, combining methods—like solarizing one area and sheet mulching another—can be effective.

Step 3: Test and Amend the Soil

While many native plants are forgiving, it’s helpful to know your soil type (clay, loam, sandy) and pH. Home soil test kits or local extension offices can help you assess.

Avoid the temptation to over-amend—many native plants thrive in poor soil. Still, incorporating a bit of compost into compacted or depleted areas can give young roots a boost.

Step 4: Choose the Right Plants

One of the joys of rewilding is discovering the diversity of plants native to your region. For Central Virginia, that includes black-eyed Susans, purple coneflower, bee balm, milkweed, little bluestem, switchgrass, and more.

Fall is an ideal time to plant perennials and grasses—cooler temperatures and autumn rains help roots establish before the dormant winter period. Even if you don’t plant this fall, it’s a great time to plan and source plants for a spring installation.

Consider using a mix of:
• Native grasses like little bluestem or Virginia wild rye
• Perennials for color and pollinators—think goldenrod, asters, and Joe-Pye weed
• Shrubs like buttonbush or winterberry holly for structure and wildlife value

Local native plant nurseries or Master Gardener groups can help you find plants well-suited for your yard’s conditions.

Step 5: Planting and Mulching

Planting in fall typically runs from late September through mid-November in our region. Space plants according to their mature size, even if they look sparse now.

Mulch around new plants with shredded leaves or natural wood mulch (but avoid dyed mulch). This helps suppress weeds and retain moisture, especially in the first year.

If you’re seeding a meadow, fall is also ideal for “dormant seeding”—spreading seed just before winter so it naturally stratifies and germinates in spring. Prepare the soil surface, rake lightly to incorporate seed, and press down gently to ensure good contact.

Step 6: Embrace the First-Year Wildness

The first growing season will look different than a manicured garden. It may take a year or two for your rewilded landscape to fill in and begin to self-sustain.

Expect some weeds—early maintenance includes hand-pulling or cutting back aggressive invaders. Watering is also crucial in the first season, especially during dry spells.

In winter, leave seed heads and stems standing to provide food and habitat for birds and beneficial insects. What might look “messy” to some is actually part of a healthy, functioning ecosystem.

Step 7: Long-Term Care and Evolution

After the first year, your rewilded garden will require far less work than a traditional lawn. Native plantings generally don’t need fertilizer, and once established, they’re drought-tolerant and low-maintenance.

Cut back dead stalks in early spring (not fall) to allow overwintering insects to emerge. Re-seed or divide as needed, and enjoy the evolving beauty of a space that reflects nature’s rhythm.

Small Steps Make a Big Impact

If the idea of transforming your entire yard feels overwhelming, start small. Convert a strip by the sidewalk into a pollinator border. Replace part of the backyard with native grasses. Every square foot of rewilded land makes a difference—for butterflies, birds, bees, and for you.

With fall on the horizon, now is the perfect time to begin the transformation. The rewards are plentiful: less mowing, more beauty, and a yard that gives back.

Craftsmanship and Collaboration Leave an Enduring Mark at the Woodsmalls’ Nelson County Home

By: Anna Eileen White / Photos Courtesy: Jonathan Mitchell, Simply Branding

Tucked where winds sweep between blue peaks and race among receding foothills, a lodge and cottage stand. Framed by summer’s mature greens, panoramic pastureland, and layered ridges, the two buildings watch over storied grounds—grounds that owners Don and Barb Woodsmall have spared no expense coaxing back to life and infusing with their own stories. These buildings are Roseland Lodge and Helen’s Cottage.

Since 2005, Don and Barb have completed project after project here, most recently engaging Corey and Lindsey, founders of Shrader Stone, to build a sauna using river rock gathered from the property and granite lintels salvaged from Danville textile mills. The natural edges and organic tones seem to breathe in tandem with the surrounding landscape, a result of “thinking about what nature and the landscape are telling us,” according to Lindsey.

Don first thought the property had potential when he saw the 180-degree views; “It’s just unbelievable,” he said. A lover of history, he values the location’s authenticity, a quality that Corey says made their collaboration a good fit, “having other people around you that share the same vision and level of care about what’s happening is really nice.”

Corey and Lindsey specialize in creating unique outdoor spaces using Old World stone masonry techniques and natural gardens that emphasize native plants. Though they both have their own specialty—Corey, masonry and Lindsey, gardening—they’re closely involved in each other’s process and share a love of sustainability, history, and working with their hands. “I love that type of project where the last time it was reassembled and touched by human hands was maybe 200 years ago,” said Corey. The Woodsmall estate fits the bill.

Roseland Lodge, which the Woodsmalls reserve as a guest space for friends both local and from distances as far away as Germany and Ireland, was constructed in 1922.

It was originally built using dead American Chestnut trees harvested from the area that were killed by the Chestnut blight. The original owner could hardly have imagined that an emphasis on local and salvaged materials would be revered so many years later.

In 1990, the building stood in disrepair and was acquired by Mark Smith, a Lynchburg figure known for his collection of rare automobiles housed at the corner of Main and 13th Streets in downtown Lynchburg prior to his passing. “He loved bringing things back to their original glory, but not making them unnaturally shiny and sparkly,” Barb said of Smith.

The Woodsmalls bought the property from Smith in 2005.

The Cottage, which the Woodsmalls have made their home, holds its own touching history. Upon learning that a nearby 80-year-old neighbor was born in the cottage in 1928, the Woodsmalls lovingly designated it “Helen’s Cottage.” A plaque now hangs in her honor by the front door, commemorating the friendship that grew between them before her death in 2015.

While both the lodge and the cottage have been through many iterations since Helen’s birth and death, the Woodsmalls’ updates all have one element in common: permanence. That’s what draws Don to stone.

“You never have to do anything to it, and 200 years from now, it’ll still be there,” he explained.

Corey said they’d originally thought of building double-faced stone walls on the sauna, but landed on a single-faced stone wall to preserve heat efficiency in the winter. Some of the river rocks were pulled from the perimeter of nearby fields where farmers deposited them over the centuries, others directly out of the Tye River where Corey and his team often retreated for lunch during construction. “It is just impossible to leave a good rock sitting there on the riverbank once you’ve seen it,” he said.

The sauna was Corey’s first experience with Cotswold architecture, a special request from Don, who loves the English style featuring stonework and a steep roof pitch with no overhang. Don also requested that Corey use minimal mortar, a technique which means the mason must work with the natural contours of the stones. “A lot of guys put stone up and put a foot of mortar around it and then another rock way over here,” Don explained. “That’s easy, anybody can do that, but to make them all fit together like Corey did, that takes talent.”

The salvaged lintels, some still sporting flecks of paint from their more polished days, form steps descending from the patio to the sauna. Quoins and headers chiseled from the same lintels accent the doorframe along with a cross. Don says the cross represents his and Barb’s worldview, a worldview he hopes his grandsons know and share when they own the property one day.

One more step forward through the doorway and the resinous scent of cedar hangs in the air—this spot is Don’s retreat at the end of most days, an easy choice seeing as he can heat the sauna with the touch of a button on his phone.

“It was great collaborating with a long-time friend and long-time customer,” said Corey, whose craftsmanship is seen elsewhere across the property in the form of lintel steps, pillars, and foundation work. Lindsey agreed, “We have the most fun clients. There are faster and cheaper ways to do this, but I think we’re all getting tired of things that break.”

For the Woodsmalls, these thoughtfully crafted outdoor spaces are perfect for enjoying mornings and evenings accented by bird songs and wildlife sightings, but the stories of friends from far and near enjoying the spaces with them seem to be their favorites. Barb’s top memories on the patio? “I think it would always involve grandkids,” she said, smiling.

By: Lindsey Cline-Shrader

As we move from a cool, rainy spring and step into the season of summer squash, sticky, sweet watermelons, and thick humidity, watering quickly becomes one of the gardener’s main challenges. Each year, our summers become hotter and drier—changing how our gardens grow and how we care for them. But plants don’t have to suffer. With a shift in approach, summer gardens can remain beautiful, healthy spaces.

Water Deeply and Early

The best time to water is early in the morning. This gives plants a strong start to the day and allows leaves to dry out by the afternoon, reducing the risk of powdery mildew and fungal diseases. Morning watering minimizes evaporation, meaning less water is wasted, and more reaches the roots.

Whether tending a new bed or maintaining an established one, water deeply and less often. Quick watering encourages shallow root growth, making plants less resilient to drought. Light watering can run off without soaking in if the soil is very dry.

Aim to imitate about one inch of rainfall—placing a shallow pan in the garden can help gauge your efforts. Or dig six inches down and check how far the water has reached.

Choose the Right Plants

Most importantly, plant the right plants in the right place. Choose drought-tolerant plants for sunny, dry areas. Many native species are naturally adapted to our summer
heat and bloom all season. You can also include Mediterranean plants like lavender, rosemary, sage, and lamb’s ear, which thrive in hot, dry conditions.

You’ll often hear gardeners talk about “hydrozoning”— a fancy term for grouping plants with similar water needs.

Keeping thirsty plants together and separate from drought-tolerant ones makes watering more efficient and offers spaces to enjoy after spring blooms disappear.

Reduce your garden maintenance by placing ornamentals in part shade or rich-soil pockets. Unless planted in a thoughtful place, common plants like roses, lilacs, rhododendrons, azaleas, and hydrangeas will likely need afternoon shade, yearly soil amendments, and weekly watering to look their best.

Observe Your Microclimates

Most often, the best improvements and the garden you dream of comes from simply paying attention. Which areas get the most afternoon sun, and which are partially shaded? Which areas have reflected heat from a building or pavement? Which areas get water from a downspout or depression?

These microclimates determine how much watering a space will need. Look for signs of heat stress—sunburnt leaves, brown or yellow leaf edges, or midday wilting—that signal a plant needs to be moved in the fall. Today’s observations shape next season’s plans and slowly build a resilient garden.

Quick Tips

Organic mulches help retain moisture, cool soil, improve soil health, and reduce weeds. Healthy soil holds moisture better, and planting densely helps plants thrive.

Shade new plants during establishment (the first 4-6 weeks after planting) in the summer. Shade cloth, other plants, or umbrellas can provide enough relief for plants to get fully rooted before the summer heat takes them out or slows their growth.

Install a rain barrel, which has two-fold benefits: first, it captures and reduces runoff and erosion, and second, it provides water when our water table dips in mid-summer. The James River Association periodically offers rain barrel workshops.

Use drip irrigation and soaker hoses to conserve water and deliver it directly to plant roots. Overhead watering wastes more water and encourages foliar diseases. If you prefer hand-watering, consider a watering wand to avoid over-spray and water roots directly.

Check containers daily. Potted plants dry out quicker than plantings, especially in terracotta pots that absorb moisture.

Unless you have self-watering pots, containers often need water daily during heatwaves. Top with mulch to help retain moisture.

Gardening is an act of resilience for us and the landscape. In the face of a changing climate and other environmental setbacks, we can begin with small, hopeful acts of restoration: planting native, reducing water use, and planning our spaces for resiliency. By creating habitat and beauty, we may find resiliency for ourselves, too.

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10 Drought-Tolerant Native Plants

Common Yarrow
(Achillea millefolium)
A tough, spreading perennial with finely cut foliage that blooms all summer.

Black-eyed Susan
(Rudbeckia fulgida)
A cheerful and resilient bloomer that handles heat, neglect, and clay soil.

Little Bluestem
(Schizachyrium scoparium)
A native warm-season grass with a striking fall color that grows in nearly any place.

Narrowleaf Mountain Mint
(Pycnanthemum tenuifolium)
Consistently ranks highest in pollinator support,
is also deer resistant, and thrives in tough, dry soils.

Wild Bergamot
(Monarda fistulosa)
Lavender-pink flowers throughout late summer, deer resistant and adapted to dry soils.

Butterfly Weed
(Asclepias tuberosa)
A tap-rooted milkweed with bright orange flowers, ideal for dry, sandy soils.

Beardtongue
(Penstemon digitalis)
Grows easily in dry, well-drained soil with beautiful upright white blooms in spring.

Threadleaf Coreopsis
(Coreopsis verticillata)
Light, airy foliage with bright yellow blooms; thrives in hot, dry gardens.

Field Goldenrod
(Solidago nemoralis)
A showy, graceful goldenrod of manageable size that tolerates drought and thrives in tough soil.

Purple Lovegrass
(Eragrostis spectabilis)
A low, airy native grass with delicate pink-purple seed heads.

A Native Gardener’s Guide to Long-Term Success

By: Lindsey Cline-Shrader

In the early days of my garden, weeding became a kind of ritual. I’d save phone calls for the task—earbuds in, kneeling in the dirt, losing track of time while I yanked out invasive plants and tried to stay ahead of the chaos. There was something satisfying about the rhythm, but I realized I was also giving weeds the perfect conditions to thrive.

Weeds are opportunists. Bare soil, open space, and soil disturbance create the perfect storm for unwanted plants to thrive. Remember you can follow these tips and plan like a pro—but weeding is still part of the garden contract, written in clay and weed seeds.

Learn Your Weeds and Pull Them Early

First, knowing what you’re dealing with can maximize your efforts and help avoid pulling beneficial plants. I once mulched right over jewelweed—now one of my favorite native “weeds” that provides crucial nectar for migrating hummingbirds. While apps aren’t perfect, I’ve found PictureThis highly accurate in identifying common weeds and native lookalikes. Double-check IDs when possible through extension offices, the Virginia Native Plant Society Facebook group, or a field guide. Then you can look up its life cycle, how it spreads, and how to remove it if needed. It’s helpful to know if weed root pieces can resprout, like mugwort, so you know it’s worth extra time to dig it out thoroughly or if a quick pull makes a difference.

Weeds tend to show up most in disturbed areas and during the first few seasons of a new garden.

The key is to pull them while they’re small. At this stage, the plant’s roots haven’t established deeply, nor have they had a chance to set seed.

Weekly walkthroughs in the garden allow you to catch trouble spots early. A five-minute weed pull now can save hours down the road by preventing seed spread or fast-growing rhizomes.

Dense Planting: Crowd Out the Competition

One of the most effective tools in weed mitigation is dense planting. Closely spaced plants shade the ground with their foliage, blocking sunlight from reaching weed seeds and preventing them from germinating. This method mimics plantings found in nature where the ground is always covered with plants (except in mature forests, where deep leaf litter takes over).

Groundcover plants are key—adding color and interest and outcompeting weeds for light, moisture, and nutrients. My favorites are violets, moss phlox for sun (Phlox subulata), woodland phlox for shade (Phlox divaricata), native coral bells (Heuchera Americana), or the many varieties of sedges (Carex spp.). You could also try partridge berry (Mitchella repens), lyre-leaf sage (Salvia lyrata), or blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium).

Go Easy on the Compost

It’s tempting to add compost or fertilizer to “support your plants,” but richer soil can work against you when it comes to weeds. Many fast-growing weeds thrive in nutrient-rich soils, and research shows that weeds can absorb added nitrogen and phosphorus more quickly than many ornamental or native species, giving them a competitive edge. Native plants are adapted to native soils and grow beautifully without added nutrients.

Say No to Systemic Herbicides

While chemical herbicides promise convenience, systemic products—including pre-emergent granules—can have serious ecological consequences. These chemicals persist in soil, harming beneficial fungi, bacteria, and invertebrates critical to healthy plant growth. Herbicides have been linked to pollinator decline, affecting bees and butterflies that rely on garden plants for food. A new study published in Science magazine recently showed that butterfly populations in the US are down 22 percent in the last 20 years.

Organic methods call for time and planning, but they protect the biodiversity we rely on for pollination and pest control.

A Living Solution to a Persistent Problem

Mulching and pulling sprouts early help beat the weeds while your ground covers fill in the gaps.

That early attention can stave off the July jungle, giving your plants time to fill in before invasive plants gain ground.

I still take calls from the garden with my favorite weeding tool in hand—because some things, like death, taxes, and weeds, are just part of life. But with the right approach, there’s a lot less of it. The goal isn’t perfection—it’s balance. With the right approach, the weeding gets easier, the soil gets healthier, and the garden starts to take care of itself.

What to Pull & What to Let Be

A quick guide to common weeds in Central Virginia

Japanese Stiltgrass
(Microstegium vimineum)
An aggressive annual grass that spreads by seed. Smother with mulch or wood chips in early spring and densely plant over. Mow once in late summer, just before flowering. Cut low to remove the hidden cleistogamous (self-pollinating) flowers tucked in at the base of the leaves.

Creeping Charlie
(Glechoma hederacea)
A low-growing, creeping ivy that thrives in disturbed, shady lawns. Suppress it with healthy plant cover and regular mowing.

Mugwort
(Artemisia vulgaris)
A fast-spreading perennial by rhizomes.
Mow before seeds mature in summer to prevent spread. Pull young plants in spring before rhizomes develop. Smother with landscape fabric, and stabilize bare soil to reduce future growth.

Better Left Alone (or Tolerated):

Native Strawberry
(Fragaria virginiana)
Often mistaken for a weed, this spreading ground cover feeds bees and birds and helps stabilize soil in sunny or partly shaded spots.

Violets
(Viola spp.)
Native, early-spring bloomers that spread easily. While not everyone wants them in their lawn, they’re great for pollinators and ground cover in shady spots.

Growing Your Own Nutrient-Rich Produce

Gardening offers a pathway to better nutrition, improved mental well-being, and a closer connection to the food on the plate.

As communities increasingly seek ways to enhance overall wellness, the garden emerges as both a source of nutrient-rich produce and a sanctuary for mindful living. Numerous studies affirm that time spent tending a garden not only boosts physical health but also nurtures mental clarity and emotional balance.

Research also indicates that regular gardening can lower stress hormones, improve mood, and even enhance cognitive function.

A garden is more than a plot of land—it is a living classroom where the journey from seed to table unfolds. Each step, from selecting seeds to harvesting a ripe tomato, deepens an appreciation for nature’s cycles. For example, a study in environmental psychology noted that individuals who engage in gardening experience measurable reductions in cortisol levels, the body’s primary stress hormone (van den Berg and Custers, 2011). Such findings support the idea that the focused, repetitive tasks of gardening encourage qualities like patience and reflection, which are central to the practice of mindful eating.

When produce is grown in a backyard or community garden, its nutritional value is often superior to that of mass-produced items. Soil enriched with organic matter fosters robust microbial ecosystems that help plants absorb a full spectrum of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Research in soil science has demonstrated that nutrient-dense, homegrown produce can contain higher levels of essential nutrients—such as vitamin C, potassium, and magnesium—compared to items that have traveled long distances before reaching the consumer. This reinforces the notion that what nourishes the body truly begins in the soil.

Nutrition experts assert that a diet abundant in homegrown vegetables, fruits, and herbs can lower the risk of chronic diseases while enhancing overall health. Diets rich in leafy greens, cruciferous vegetables, and aromatic herbs have been linked in longitudinal studies to reduced rates of heart disease, certain cancers, and metabolic disorders. In addition, research also suggests that incorporating fresh, nutrient-dense produce into one’s diet improves overall diet quality by increasing fiber intake and reducing reliance on processed foods. For those striving for a healthier lifestyle, planting a garden becomes a proactive step toward integrating more nutrient-rich ingredients into daily meals.

The benefits of gardening extend far beyond the harvest. Daily routines such as watering, weeding, and pruning provide moderate exercise that can improve cardiovascular health, build strength, and enhance flexibility. Regular gardening activities burn calories at a rate comparable to other forms of low-impact exercise. Such physical activity, combined with the restorative influence of nature, creates an environment where both body and mind flourish. Moreover, exposure to fresh air and natural sunlight boosts vitamin D production, a critical component in maintaining bone health, immune function, and mood regulation.

The garden also offers a welcome respite from the constant distractions of daily life—from incessant cell phone notifications to the onslaught of the daily news cycle.

Even short periods of time spent in a natural setting can decrease heart rate and lower blood pressure, while also promoting a state of mental calm.

The journey toward mindful eating begins with a deeper understanding of one’s local environment and the seasonal opportunities it offers. Gardeners across the country face unique challenges and rewards dictated by their specific climate and soil conditions. For instance, in zone 7, where we are, early spring presents a narrow window for planting cool-weather crops that thrive before the heat of summer arrives (see sidebar for foods that can be planted in this spring season). Recognizing these regional differences allows gardeners to plan and adapt their practices, ensuring that each seed planted can flourish and contribute to a healthier diet.

In a time when the origins of food are increasingly opaque, cultivating a garden can restore a sense of trust and transparency to your diet. The simple acts of planting, tending, and harvesting reaffirm that healthy eating is attainable through a blend of basic horticultural knowledge, patience, and a willingness to reconnect with nature.

Zone 7 Garden Planting: March & April Produce

Leafy Greens: Lettuce, spinach, and Swiss chard thrive in cooler temperatures.

Root Vegetables: Radishes, carrots, and beets can be sown early for a quick harvest.

Cruciferous Vegetables: Broccoli, cabbage, and kale tolerate the chill of early spring.

Legumes: Peas, including sugar snap and snow varieties, benefit from early planting.

Herbs: Parsley, cilantro, and chives begin well in the cooler months.