Growing Good

How Lynchburg Grows Is “Planting Seeds” to Feed and Impact our Community

by: Megan L. Horst | Photos Courtesy: Lynchburg grows

Lynchburg Grows has been serving the community for nearly 21 years. Their seven-acre urban farm offers meaningful job opportunities for individuals with disabilities, while also providing fresh, local produce to the community, restaurants, and organizations.

“Our mission is to work with the community to provide access to healthy food, and then also to provide purposeful jobs to people with disabilities,” said Shelley Blades, executive director of Lynchburg Grows. Currently, they have five paid farmers and two farm coaches who assist with harvesting and farm chores.

“Their coach is there to help answer any questions they may have, make sure everything is being done properly, and that they are doing their job safely,” Blades explained. Farm coaches also work with the farmers to ensure they meet their work and personal goals.

Recently, Lynchburg Grows was one of the ten recipients of the Kubota Hometown Proud Grant® and was awarded $25,000 in cash and $25,000 in Kubota equipment. The grant was awarded to nonprofits nationwide that are making a positive impact on their local communities.

“The work they do to feed the Lynchburg community resonated with the spirit of the Kubota Hometown Proud grant program,” said local dealer Zach Jones, general manager of Kubota of Lynchburg. “Their application made it very clear that they needed the grant resources to be able to increase the number of people they feed, teach, and empower in our community for years to come. At the heart of it all is dependable equipment that is needed to scale the project and to power real change for the goals of their operation.”

 

Blades expressed that they were pleasantly surprised and excited to have been chosen for the grant.

“It’s really great because we get some Kubota equipment, which will be very helpful,” Blades said. “That will help us in all aspects of the farm. It will help us post-harvest moving produce around, not having to carry 50 to 80 pounds of tomatoes from one greenhouse to another.” The grant funds will be used to expand their operation. They also expect the funds to increase their produce output by 25 percent, enhance nutrition education and provide additional vocational training opportunities for individuals with disabilities.

“We are looking forward to reaching our community in different ways and expanding,” Blades said.

Lynchburg Grows additionally provides opportunities for youth in the community to learn and have fun. A portion of the grant funds will be used to expand their education greenhouse, which is solely dedicated to learning, and used for classes, field trips, and camps.

“This will be a space for students to explore and learn and play without interfering with the day-to-day farm operations,” Blades said. They hope to include a “tasting kitchen” in the learning greenhouse, allowing them to transition from planting to harvesting to tasting all in one space. In the summer, Lynchburg Grows hosts a variety of day camps for kids. At the week-long camps, participants have the opportunity to work alongside farmers with disabilities and harvest produce.

“They learn about plant cycles and planting and growing,” Blades said.

“They learn about nutrition, they’ll cook the food that they are harvesting, and so they get some cooking lessons. They also help clean up, so they’re learning to work together as a team and then also they help us with our donations.” Lynchburg Grows donates to many local organizations, including Park View Community Mission, Miriam’s House, Lynchburg Daily Bread, Connecting Point, and others.

“They [campers] help pack donations up so they’re learning philanthropy and why it’s good to give back to your community,” Blades shared.

 

A wide variety of produce is grown on their farm, which changes depending on the season. Currently, they are growing a variety of root vegetables, including turnips, beets, carrots, radishes, and leafy greens, as well as eggplant, beans, herbs, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, and more.

“We are lucky to be able to grow year-round,” Blades said. For members who join at the beginning of their growing season, in March, they can pick up their share on Wednesdays; however, their Farm Store is open to the public every Thursday from 9 a.m. through 1 p.m.

“We accept SNAP, which is great,” Blades said. They also participate in the Senior Farmers’ Market Nutrition Program, a government initiative designed to provide seniors with access to fresh produce.

“Lots of ways you can shop,” she said. Another way to support Lynchburg Grows is to volunteer at the farm. They are always looking for help with tasks around the farm.

“Not all of [the volunteer work] is really, really hard,” Blades said. “We can definitely modify it to each person’s abilities.”

Blades expressed that they are incredibly grateful to Kubota. The new equipment and funds will make a substantial impact on their operation.

“We are proud to have selected Lynchburg Grows for this opportunity,” Jones added. “And even more so to see what they’re able to accomplish with
our equipment.”




From Grass to Garden

A Beginner’s Guide to Rewilding Your Landscape

For decades, a lush green lawn was the hallmark of a well-kept home. But more and more homeowners are trading in their turfgrass for something wilder—and more purposeful. Whether inspired by declining pollinator populations, increasing water bills, or the simple desire for a more beautiful and ecologically rich yard, rewilding is having a moment.

Rewilding your landscape doesn’t mean letting it go untamed. Rather, it’s a thoughtful process of transitioning away from traditional grass lawns to native plantings, meadows, or habitat gardens that support biodiversity and require fewer resources to maintain. If you’ve been eyeing your patch of grass and wondering how to begin, fall is actually the perfect time to start laying the groundwork. Here’s how.

Step 1: Start with a Plan

Before you dig in, take a step back. Consider how much of your yard you want to rewild—some people begin with just a corner or border, while others go all-in. Walk your property and note areas of full sun, part shade, drainage issues, or spots prone to foot traffic. These observations will influence the types of plants you choose.

Then, ask yourself a few key questions:
• Do you want a wildflower meadow, a pollinator garden, or a mix of native grasses and shrubs?
• How formal or natural should it look?
• Will you need to maintain some lawn for pets or play?

Sketching out a rough map or plan can help you visualize the change—and stick with it when the grass starts to go.

planting suitable for dry climates

Step 2: Remove the Turf

Turfgrass is persistent. Removing it is the first and most labor-intensive part of rewilding. There are a few methods to consider:
• Sheet Mulching (Lasagna Method): Best started in fall. Lay down cardboard or newspaper directly over the grass, then top with layers of compost and mulch. By spring,
the grass will be smothered, and the soil will be richer.
• Sod Cutting: Use a sod cutter to remove grass manually. This provides an immediate blank slate but can disrupt soil health.
• Solarization: Place clear plastic sheeting over the area during the heat of summer. This “bakes” the grass and weed seeds, preparing the site for fall planting.

For small patches, a shovel and persistence may do the trick. For larger spaces, combining methods—like solarizing one area and sheet mulching another—can be effective.

Step 3: Test and Amend the Soil

While many native plants are forgiving, it’s helpful to know your soil type (clay, loam, sandy) and pH. Home soil test kits or local extension offices can help you assess.

Avoid the temptation to over-amend—many native plants thrive in poor soil. Still, incorporating a bit of compost into compacted or depleted areas can give young roots a boost.

Footpath in awonderful herb and flower garden

Step 4: Choose the Right Plants

One of the joys of rewilding is discovering the diversity of plants native to your region. For Central Virginia, that includes black-eyed Susans, purple coneflower, bee balm, milkweed, little bluestem, switchgrass, and more.

Fall is an ideal time to plant perennials and grasses—cooler temperatures and autumn rains help roots establish before the dormant winter period. Even if you don’t plant this fall, it’s a great time to plan and source plants for a spring installation.

Consider using a mix of:
• Native grasses like little bluestem or Virginia wild rye
• Perennials for color and pollinators—think goldenrod, asters, and Joe-Pye weed
• Shrubs like buttonbush or winterberry holly for structure and wildlife value

Local native plant nurseries or Master Gardener groups can help you find plants well-suited for your yard’s conditions.

Step 5: Planting and Mulching

Planting in fall typically runs from late September through mid-November in our region. Space plants according to their mature size, even if they look sparse now.

Mulch around new plants with shredded leaves or natural wood mulch (but avoid dyed mulch). This helps suppress weeds and retain moisture, especially in the first year.

If you’re seeding a meadow, fall is also ideal for “dormant seeding”—spreading seed just before winter so it naturally stratifies and germinates in spring. Prepare the soil surface, rake lightly to incorporate seed, and press down gently to ensure good contact.

Step 6: Embrace the First-Year Wildness

The first growing season will look different than a manicured garden. It may take a year or two for your rewilded landscape to fill in and begin to self-sustain.

Expect some weeds—early maintenance includes hand-pulling or cutting back aggressive invaders. Watering is also crucial in the first season, especially during dry spells.

In winter, leave seed heads and stems standing to provide food and habitat for birds and beneficial insects. What might look “messy” to some is actually part of a healthy, functioning ecosystem.

A group of brightly colored Monarch butterflies, or Danaus plexippus, feeds on a Buttonbush, or Cephalanthus, on a very warm summer morning near a lake in Texas. A lone honeybee approaches to join them.

Step 7: Long-Term Care and Evolution

After the first year, your rewilded garden will require far less work than a traditional lawn. Native plantings generally don’t need fertilizer, and once established, they’re drought-tolerant and low-maintenance.

Cut back dead stalks in early spring (not fall) to allow overwintering insects to emerge. Re-seed or divide as needed, and enjoy the evolving beauty of a space that reflects nature’s rhythm.

Small Steps Make a Big Impact

If the idea of transforming your entire yard feels overwhelming, start small. Convert a strip by the sidewalk into a pollinator border. Replace part of the backyard with native grasses. Every square foot of rewilded land makes a difference—for butterflies, birds, bees, and for you.

With fall on the horizon, now is the perfect time to begin the transformation. The rewards are plentiful: less mowing, more beauty, and a yard that gives back.




Carved in Stone

Craftsmanship and Collaboration Leave an Enduring Mark at the Woodsmalls’ Nelson County Home

By: Anna Eileen White / Photos Courtesy: Jonathan Mitchell, Simply Branding

Tucked where winds sweep between blue peaks and race among receding foothills, a lodge and cottage stand. Framed by summer’s mature greens, panoramic pastureland, and layered ridges, the two buildings watch over storied grounds—grounds that owners Don and Barb Woodsmall have spared no expense coaxing back to life and infusing with their own stories. These buildings are Roseland Lodge and Helen’s Cottage.

Since 2005, Don and Barb have completed project after project here, most recently engaging Corey and Lindsey, founders of Shrader Stone, to build a sauna using river rock gathered from the property and granite lintels salvaged from Danville textile mills. The natural edges and organic tones seem to breathe in tandem with the surrounding landscape, a result of “thinking about what nature and the landscape are telling us,” according to Lindsey.

Don first thought the property had potential when he saw the 180-degree views; “It’s just unbelievable,” he said. A lover of history, he values the location’s authenticity, a quality that Corey says made their collaboration a good fit, “having other people around you that share the same vision and level of care about what’s happening is really nice.”

Corey and Lindsey specialize in creating unique outdoor spaces using Old World stone masonry techniques and natural gardens that emphasize native plants. Though they both have their own specialty—Corey, masonry and Lindsey, gardening—they’re closely involved in each other’s process and share a love of sustainability, history, and working with their hands. “I love that type of project where the last time it was reassembled and touched by human hands was maybe 200 years ago,” said Corey. The Woodsmall estate fits the bill.

Roseland Lodge, which the Woodsmalls reserve as a guest space for friends both local and from distances as far away as Germany and Ireland, was constructed in 1922.

It was originally built using dead American Chestnut trees harvested from the area that were killed by the Chestnut blight. The original owner could hardly have imagined that an emphasis on local and salvaged materials would be revered so many years later.

In 1990, the building stood in disrepair and was acquired by Mark Smith, a Lynchburg figure known for his collection of rare automobiles housed at the corner of Main and 13th Streets in downtown Lynchburg prior to his passing. “He loved bringing things back to their original glory, but not making them unnaturally shiny and sparkly,” Barb said of Smith.

The Woodsmalls bought the property from Smith in 2005.

The Cottage, which the Woodsmalls have made their home, holds its own touching history. Upon learning that a nearby 80-year-old neighbor was born in the cottage in 1928, the Woodsmalls lovingly designated it “Helen’s Cottage.” A plaque now hangs in her honor by the front door, commemorating the friendship that grew between them before her death in 2015.

While both the lodge and the cottage have been through many iterations since Helen’s birth and death, the Woodsmalls’ updates all have one element in common: permanence. That’s what draws Don to stone.

“You never have to do anything to it, and 200 years from now, it’ll still be there,” he explained.

Corey said they’d originally thought of building double-faced stone walls on the sauna, but landed on a single-faced stone wall to preserve heat efficiency in the winter. Some of the river rocks were pulled from the perimeter of nearby fields where farmers deposited them over the centuries, others directly out of the Tye River where Corey and his team often retreated for lunch during construction. “It is just impossible to leave a good rock sitting there on the riverbank once you’ve seen it,” he said.

The sauna was Corey’s first experience with Cotswold architecture, a special request from Don, who loves the English style featuring stonework and a steep roof pitch with no overhang. Don also requested that Corey use minimal mortar, a technique which means the mason must work with the natural contours of the stones. “A lot of guys put stone up and put a foot of mortar around it and then another rock way over here,” Don explained. “That’s easy, anybody can do that, but to make them all fit together like Corey did, that takes talent.”

The salvaged lintels, some still sporting flecks of paint from their more polished days, form steps descending from the patio to the sauna. Quoins and headers chiseled from the same lintels accent the doorframe along with a cross. Don says the cross represents his and Barb’s worldview, a worldview he hopes his grandsons know and share when they own the property one day.

One more step forward through the doorway and the resinous scent of cedar hangs in the air—this spot is Don’s retreat at the end of most days, an easy choice seeing as he can heat the sauna with the touch of a button on his phone.

“It was great collaborating with a long-time friend and long-time customer,” said Corey, whose craftsmanship is seen elsewhere across the property in the form of lintel steps, pillars, and foundation work. Lindsey agreed, “We have the most fun clients. There are faster and cheaper ways to do this, but I think we’re all getting tired of things that break.”

For the Woodsmalls, these thoughtfully crafted outdoor spaces are perfect for enjoying mornings and evenings accented by bird songs and wildlife sightings, but the stories of friends from far and near enjoying the spaces with them seem to be their favorites. Barb’s top memories on the patio? “I think it would always involve grandkids,” she said, smiling.




In the Heat of Summer: Gardening with Resilience

By: Lindsey Cline-Shrader

As we move from a cool, rainy spring and step into the season of summer squash, sticky, sweet watermelons, and thick humidity, watering quickly becomes one of the gardener’s main challenges. Each year, our summers become hotter and drier—changing how our gardens grow and how we care for them. But plants don’t have to suffer. With a shift in approach, summer gardens can remain beautiful, healthy spaces.

Water Deeply and Early

The best time to water is early in the morning. This gives plants a strong start to the day and allows leaves to dry out by the afternoon, reducing the risk of powdery mildew and fungal diseases. Morning watering minimizes evaporation, meaning less water is wasted, and more reaches the roots.

Whether tending a new bed or maintaining an established one, water deeply and less often. Quick watering encourages shallow root growth, making plants less resilient to drought. Light watering can run off without soaking in if the soil is very dry.

Aim to imitate about one inch of rainfall—placing a shallow pan in the garden can help gauge your efforts. Or dig six inches down and check how far the water has reached.

Choose the Right Plants

Most importantly, plant the right plants in the right place. Choose drought-tolerant plants for sunny, dry areas. Many native species are naturally adapted to our summer
heat and bloom all season. You can also include Mediterranean plants like lavender, rosemary, sage, and lamb’s ear, which thrive in hot, dry conditions.

You’ll often hear gardeners talk about “hydrozoning”— a fancy term for grouping plants with similar water needs.

Keeping thirsty plants together and separate from drought-tolerant ones makes watering more efficient and offers spaces to enjoy after spring blooms disappear.

Reduce your garden maintenance by placing ornamentals in part shade or rich-soil pockets. Unless planted in a thoughtful place, common plants like roses, lilacs, rhododendrons, azaleas, and hydrangeas will likely need afternoon shade, yearly soil amendments, and weekly watering to look their best.

Observe Your Microclimates

Most often, the best improvements and the garden you dream of comes from simply paying attention. Which areas get the most afternoon sun, and which are partially shaded? Which areas have reflected heat from a building or pavement? Which areas get water from a downspout or depression?

These microclimates determine how much watering a space will need. Look for signs of heat stress—sunburnt leaves, brown or yellow leaf edges, or midday wilting—that signal a plant needs to be moved in the fall. Today’s observations shape next season’s plans and slowly build a resilient garden.

Quick Tips

Organic mulches help retain moisture, cool soil, improve soil health, and reduce weeds. Healthy soil holds moisture better, and planting densely helps plants thrive.

Shade new plants during establishment (the first 4-6 weeks after planting) in the summer. Shade cloth, other plants, or umbrellas can provide enough relief for plants to get fully rooted before the summer heat takes them out or slows their growth.

Install a rain barrel, which has two-fold benefits: first, it captures and reduces runoff and erosion, and second, it provides water when our water table dips in mid-summer. The James River Association periodically offers rain barrel workshops.

Use drip irrigation and soaker hoses to conserve water and deliver it directly to plant roots. Overhead watering wastes more water and encourages foliar diseases. If you prefer hand-watering, consider a watering wand to avoid over-spray and water roots directly.

Check containers daily. Potted plants dry out quicker than plantings, especially in terracotta pots that absorb moisture.

Unless you have self-watering pots, containers often need water daily during heatwaves. Top with mulch to help retain moisture.

Gardening is an act of resilience for us and the landscape. In the face of a changing climate and other environmental setbacks, we can begin with small, hopeful acts of restoration: planting native, reducing water use, and planning our spaces for resiliency. By creating habitat and beauty, we may find resiliency for ourselves, too.


10 Drought-Tolerant Native Plants

Common Yarrow
(Achillea millefolium)
A tough, spreading perennial with finely cut foliage that blooms all summer.

Black-eyed Susan
(Rudbeckia fulgida)
A cheerful and resilient bloomer that handles heat, neglect, and clay soil.

Little Bluestem
(Schizachyrium scoparium)
A native warm-season grass with a striking fall color that grows in nearly any place.

Narrowleaf Mountain Mint
(Pycnanthemum tenuifolium)
Consistently ranks highest in pollinator support,
is also deer resistant, and thrives in tough, dry soils.

Wild Bergamot
(Monarda fistulosa)
Lavender-pink flowers throughout late summer, deer resistant and adapted to dry soils.

Butterfly Weed
(Asclepias tuberosa)
A tap-rooted milkweed with bright orange flowers, ideal for dry, sandy soils.

Beardtongue
(Penstemon digitalis)
Grows easily in dry, well-drained soil with beautiful upright white blooms in spring.

Threadleaf Coreopsis
(Coreopsis verticillata)
Light, airy foliage with bright yellow blooms; thrives in hot, dry gardens.

Field Goldenrod
(Solidago nemoralis)
A showy, graceful goldenrod of manageable size that tolerates drought and thrives in tough soil.

Purple Lovegrass
(Eragrostis spectabilis)
A low, airy native grass with delicate pink-purple seed heads.




Weed Less, Grow More

A Native Gardener’s Guide to Long-Term Success

By: Lindsey Cline-Shrader

In the early days of my garden, weeding became a kind of ritual. I’d save phone calls for the task—earbuds in, kneeling in the dirt, losing track of time while I yanked out invasive plants and tried to stay ahead of the chaos. There was something satisfying about the rhythm, but I realized I was also giving weeds the perfect conditions to thrive.

Weeds are opportunists. Bare soil, open space, and soil disturbance create the perfect storm for unwanted plants to thrive. Remember you can follow these tips and plan like a pro—but weeding is still part of the garden contract, written in clay and weed seeds.

Learn Your Weeds and Pull Them Early

First, knowing what you’re dealing with can maximize your efforts and help avoid pulling beneficial plants. I once mulched right over jewelweed—now one of my favorite native “weeds” that provides crucial nectar for migrating hummingbirds. While apps aren’t perfect, I’ve found PictureThis highly accurate in identifying common weeds and native lookalikes. Double-check IDs when possible through extension offices, the Virginia Native Plant Society Facebook group, or a field guide. Then you can look up its life cycle, how it spreads, and how to remove it if needed. It’s helpful to know if weed root pieces can resprout, like mugwort, so you know it’s worth extra time to dig it out thoroughly or if a quick pull makes a difference.

Weeds tend to show up most in disturbed areas and during the first few seasons of a new garden.

The key is to pull them while they’re small. At this stage, the plant’s roots haven’t established deeply, nor have they had a chance to set seed.

Weekly walkthroughs in the garden allow you to catch trouble spots early. A five-minute weed pull now can save hours down the road by preventing seed spread or fast-growing rhizomes.

Dense Planting: Crowd Out the Competition

One of the most effective tools in weed mitigation is dense planting. Closely spaced plants shade the ground with their foliage, blocking sunlight from reaching weed seeds and preventing them from germinating. This method mimics plantings found in nature where the ground is always covered with plants (except in mature forests, where deep leaf litter takes over).

Groundcover plants are key—adding color and interest and outcompeting weeds for light, moisture, and nutrients. My favorites are violets, moss phlox for sun (Phlox subulata), woodland phlox for shade (Phlox divaricata), native coral bells (Heuchera Americana), or the many varieties of sedges (Carex spp.). You could also try partridge berry (Mitchella repens), lyre-leaf sage (Salvia lyrata), or blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium).

Go Easy on the Compost

It’s tempting to add compost or fertilizer to “support your plants,” but richer soil can work against you when it comes to weeds. Many fast-growing weeds thrive in nutrient-rich soils, and research shows that weeds can absorb added nitrogen and phosphorus more quickly than many ornamental or native species, giving them a competitive edge. Native plants are adapted to native soils and grow beautifully without added nutrients.

Say No to Systemic Herbicides

While chemical herbicides promise convenience, systemic products—including pre-emergent granules—can have serious ecological consequences. These chemicals persist in soil, harming beneficial fungi, bacteria, and invertebrates critical to healthy plant growth. Herbicides have been linked to pollinator decline, affecting bees and butterflies that rely on garden plants for food. A new study published in Science magazine recently showed that butterfly populations in the US are down 22 percent in the last 20 years.

Organic methods call for time and planning, but they protect the biodiversity we rely on for pollination and pest control.

A Living Solution to a Persistent Problem

Mulching and pulling sprouts early help beat the weeds while your ground covers fill in the gaps.

That early attention can stave off the July jungle, giving your plants time to fill in before invasive plants gain ground.

I still take calls from the garden with my favorite weeding tool in hand—because some things, like death, taxes, and weeds, are just part of life. But with the right approach, there’s a lot less of it. The goal isn’t perfection—it’s balance. With the right approach, the weeding gets easier, the soil gets healthier, and the garden starts to take care of itself.

What to Pull & What to Let Be

A quick guide to common weeds in Central Virginia

Japanese Stiltgrass
(Microstegium vimineum)
An aggressive annual grass that spreads by seed. Smother with mulch or wood chips in early spring and densely plant over. Mow once in late summer, just before flowering. Cut low to remove the hidden cleistogamous (self-pollinating) flowers tucked in at the base of the leaves.

Creeping Charlie
(Glechoma hederacea)
A low-growing, creeping ivy that thrives in disturbed, shady lawns. Suppress it with healthy plant cover and regular mowing.

Mugwort
(Artemisia vulgaris)
A fast-spreading perennial by rhizomes.
Mow before seeds mature in summer to prevent spread. Pull young plants in spring before rhizomes develop. Smother with landscape fabric, and stabilize bare soil to reduce future growth.

Better Left Alone (or Tolerated):

Native Strawberry
(Fragaria virginiana)
Often mistaken for a weed, this spreading ground cover feeds bees and birds and helps stabilize soil in sunny or partly shaded spots.

Violets
(Viola spp.)
Native, early-spring bloomers that spread easily. While not everyone wants them in their lawn, they’re great for pollinators and ground cover in shady spots.




Gardens for Mindful Eating

Growing Your Own Nutrient-Rich Produce

Gardening offers a pathway to better nutrition, improved mental well-being, and a closer connection to the food on the plate.

As communities increasingly seek ways to enhance overall wellness, the garden emerges as both a source of nutrient-rich produce and a sanctuary for mindful living. Numerous studies affirm that time spent tending a garden not only boosts physical health but also nurtures mental clarity and emotional balance.

Research also indicates that regular gardening can lower stress hormones, improve mood, and even enhance cognitive function.

A garden is more than a plot of land—it is a living classroom where the journey from seed to table unfolds. Each step, from selecting seeds to harvesting a ripe tomato, deepens an appreciation for nature’s cycles. For example, a study in environmental psychology noted that individuals who engage in gardening experience measurable reductions in cortisol levels, the body’s primary stress hormone (van den Berg and Custers, 2011). Such findings support the idea that the focused, repetitive tasks of gardening encourage qualities like patience and reflection, which are central to the practice of mindful eating.

When produce is grown in a backyard or community garden, its nutritional value is often superior to that of mass-produced items. Soil enriched with organic matter fosters robust microbial ecosystems that help plants absorb a full spectrum of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Research in soil science has demonstrated that nutrient-dense, homegrown produce can contain higher levels of essential nutrients—such as vitamin C, potassium, and magnesium—compared to items that have traveled long distances before reaching the consumer. This reinforces the notion that what nourishes the body truly begins in the soil.

Nutrition experts assert that a diet abundant in homegrown vegetables, fruits, and herbs can lower the risk of chronic diseases while enhancing overall health. Diets rich in leafy greens, cruciferous vegetables, and aromatic herbs have been linked in longitudinal studies to reduced rates of heart disease, certain cancers, and metabolic disorders. In addition, research also suggests that incorporating fresh, nutrient-dense produce into one’s diet improves overall diet quality by increasing fiber intake and reducing reliance on processed foods. For those striving for a healthier lifestyle, planting a garden becomes a proactive step toward integrating more nutrient-rich ingredients into daily meals.

The benefits of gardening extend far beyond the harvest. Daily routines such as watering, weeding, and pruning provide moderate exercise that can improve cardiovascular health, build strength, and enhance flexibility. Regular gardening activities burn calories at a rate comparable to other forms of low-impact exercise. Such physical activity, combined with the restorative influence of nature, creates an environment where both body and mind flourish. Moreover, exposure to fresh air and natural sunlight boosts vitamin D production, a critical component in maintaining bone health, immune function, and mood regulation.

The garden also offers a welcome respite from the constant distractions of daily life—from incessant cell phone notifications to the onslaught of the daily news cycle.

Even short periods of time spent in a natural setting can decrease heart rate and lower blood pressure, while also promoting a state of mental calm.

The journey toward mindful eating begins with a deeper understanding of one’s local environment and the seasonal opportunities it offers. Gardeners across the country face unique challenges and rewards dictated by their specific climate and soil conditions. For instance, in zone 7, where we are, early spring presents a narrow window for planting cool-weather crops that thrive before the heat of summer arrives (see sidebar for foods that can be planted in this spring season). Recognizing these regional differences allows gardeners to plan and adapt their practices, ensuring that each seed planted can flourish and contribute to a healthier diet.

In a time when the origins of food are increasingly opaque, cultivating a garden can restore a sense of trust and transparency to your diet. The simple acts of planting, tending, and harvesting reaffirm that healthy eating is attainable through a blend of basic horticultural knowledge, patience, and a willingness to reconnect with nature.

Zone 7 Garden Planting: March & April Produce

Leafy Greens: Lettuce, spinach, and Swiss chard thrive in cooler temperatures.

Root Vegetables: Radishes, carrots, and beets can be sown early for a quick harvest.

Cruciferous Vegetables: Broccoli, cabbage, and kale tolerate the chill of early spring.

Legumes: Peas, including sugar snap and snow varieties, benefit from early planting.

Herbs: Parsley, cilantro, and chives begin well in the cooler months.




Preserving Garden Goodness

How to Dry Herbs & Vegetables Without a Dehydrator

Drying herbs and vegetables is a fantastic way to preserve your garden’s bounty or leftover farmer’s market produce for use year-round. While a food dehydrator can speed up the process, you don’t need special equipment to successfully dry your produce. Many herbs and vegetables can be air-dried or dried in the oven with minimal effort. Here’s how to do it, plus tips to ensure the best results.

Herbs & Vegetables That Can Be Dried Without a Dehydrator

Herbs
• Basil
• Oregano
• Thyme
• Rosemary
• Sage
• Mint
• Parsley
• Dill
• Chives
• Marjoram

Vegetables
• Tomatoes (for making sun-dried tomatoes in the oven)
• Peppers (hot or sweet)
• Onions
• Garlic
• Mushrooms
• Kale
• Spinach
• Carrots (grated or sliced thin)
• Zucchini (sliced or shredded)

Air-Drying Method
Air-drying is ideal for herbs and certain vegetables that don’t have a high moisture content. This method works best in a dry, warm, and well-ventilated area.

Steps for Air-Drying Herbs
1. Harvest herbs in the morning after the dew has evaporated but before the heat of the day.
2. Gently shake off any dirt or rinse lightly and pat dry with a towel.
3. Gather small bunches (about five to ten stems) and tie them together with twine or a rubber band.
4. Hang the bunches upside down in a warm, dark, and well-ventilated space, like a pantry or a covered porch.
5. Depending on humidity levels, herbs will dry in 1-2 weeks. They are ready when they crumble easily.
6. Remove the leaves from the stems and store them in airtight containers away from direct sunlight.

Steps for Air-Drying Vegetables
• Thinly slice low-moisture vegetables like peppers and onions.
• Lay them out on a clean, breathable surface like a mesh rack or parchment paper in a dry, warm area.
• Turn them every few days to ensure even drying.
• Once brittle, store them in airtight containers.

Oven-Drying Method
For vegetables and moisture-rich herbs, oven drying is a more reliable option.

Steps for Oven-Drying Herbs & Vegetables
1. Preheat your oven to the lowest setting (typically 150-200°F).
2. Arrange herbs or vegetable slices in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
3. Leave the oven door slightly open to allow moisture to escape (you can prop it open with a wooden spoon).
4. Check herbs after 1-2 hours; they should crumble easily.
5. Vegetables may take 4-6 hours depending on thickness. Flip them halfway through drying.
6. Once fully dry, cool completely before storing in airtight containers.

Tips for Successful Drying
• Choose the best produce: Only dry fresh, unblemished herbs and vegetables for the best flavor and storage quality.
• Avoid damp conditions: Humidity can slow drying and promote mold.

Ensure a dry environment for air-drying.
• Store properly: Keep dried herbs and vegetables in airtight containers in a cool, dark place to retain freshness.
• Label your jars: Include the drying date to track freshness. Most dried herbs last up to a year, while dried vegetables can last even longer.
• Test for dryness: If a vegetable bends instead of breaking, it needs more drying time.




Planning a Vegetable Garden: A Step-by-Step Guide

A well-planned vegetable garden can provide fresh, nutritious produce while maximizing space and resources efficiently. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced gardener, careful planning is key to a successful harvest. We’re here to walk you through every step—from selecting a location to harvesting your crops, ensuring a productive, and enjoyable gardening experience.

Selecting the Right Location

The success of your vegetable garden begins with choosing the best location. Most vegetables require at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Look for an area with well-draining soil to prevent waterlogging, and avoid spots where water pools after rain. A nearby water source is essential for convenient irrigation, as vegetables need consistent moisture. Additionally, consider wind protection—installing a fence or planting shrubs can shield delicate plants from harsh gusts. Accessibility is also important; placing your garden near your home makes it easier to maintain and harvest.

Determining Your Garden Size and Type

The size of your garden depends on your available space, time commitment, and experience level. Beginners may start with a smaller plot, such as a 4×4-foot raised bed, before expanding. Traditional in-ground gardens require more space and effort but can accommodate a greater variety of crops. Raised beds offer better drainage and soil quality control, while container gardening works well for patios and small spaces. If you’re new to gardening, it’s wise to start small and gradually increase the size as you gain confidence.

Choosing the Right Crops

Selecting vegetables that thrive in your climate is essential. We are in Zone 7, which means we have a temperate climate and a medium-length growing season. Also consider your family’s eating habits—growing what you enjoy eating makes the effort worthwhile. Some beginner-friendly crops include:

  • Leafy Greens (Lettuce, Spinach, Kale) – Quick to mature and suitable for small spaces.
  • Tomatoes and Peppers – Require warm weather and staking for support.
  • Root Vegetables (Carrots, Radishes, Beets) – Ideal for loose, well-draining soil.
  • Herbs (Basil, Parsley, Cilantro) – Easy to grow in containers and require minimal space.

For maximum efficiency, incorporate succession planting—replacing harvested crops with new ones to extend the growing season.

Designing the Garden Layout

A well-planned layout optimizes space and ensures healthy plant growth. Consider these design principles:

  • Rows vs. Raised Beds: Traditional row planting works well for large gardens, while raised beds improve drainage and reduce soil compaction.
  • Companion Planting: Some plants support each other’s growth—basil enhances tomatoes, while beans add nitrogen to the soil for corn.
  • Vertical Gardening: Trellises and stakes save space and provide support for climbing plants like peas and cucumbers.
  • Pathways: Ensure easy access to all plants for watering, weeding, and harvesting.

Sketch a rough garden plan before planting to visualize spacing and arrangement.

Understanding Planting Schedules

Timing your plantings correctly ensures a steady harvest. Begin by checking your area’s last frost date, as this determines when you can safely plant outdoors. In Lynchburg, our final frost date is projected to be April 23 this year (2025). Many vegetables can be grouped into three seasonal categories:

  • Cool-Season Crops (Spring & Fall): Lettuce, broccoli, and peas thrive in cooler temperatures.
  • Warm-Season Crops (Summer): Tomatoes, peppers, and squash require heat to flourish.
  • Succession Crops: Radishes and lettuce can be planted in intervals to provide continuous harvests.

Consider keeping a garden journal to track planting dates, growth progress, and harvest yields for future reference.

Preparing the Soil

Healthy soil is the foundation of a productive garden. Follow these steps to ensure nutrient-rich soil:

  1. Conduct a Soil Test: Kits are available at garden centers to measure pH and nutrient levels.
  2. Amend as Needed: Adjust pH with lime (to raise) or sulfur (to lower) and enrich the soil with compost, aged manure, or organic matter.
  3. Aerate and Loosen: Till or manually turn over the soil to improve drainage and root penetration.
  4. Apply Mulch: A layer of straw, leaves, or wood chips helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Planting and Caring for Your Garden

Once your soil is ready, it’s time to plant. Follow these guidelines for best results:

  • Seeds vs. Transplants: Some plants, like beans and carrots, grow best from direct-seeded plants, while others, like tomatoes and peppers, benefit from nursery transplants.
  • Proper Spacing: Overcrowding leads to poor air circulation and increased disease risk. Follow spacing recommendations on seed packets.
  • Watering: Vegetables need about one inch of water per week. Water deeply in the morning to prevent evaporation and disease.
  • Weeding and Pest Control: Regular weeding prevents competition for nutrients. Use natural pest deterrents like neem oil, insecticidal soap, or row covers.

Harvesting and Storing Your Produce

Each vegetable has an optimal harvesting time. Picking at peak ripeness ensures the best flavor and texture. General harvesting tips include:

  • Lettuce and Herbs: Harvest outer leaves as needed to encourage continued growth.
  • Tomatoes: Pick when fully colored but still firm.
  • Zucchini and Cucumbers: Pick frequently to encourage more production.
  • Root Vegetables: Gently pull from the soil when they reach the recommended size.

Proper storage extends the shelf life of your harvest. Leafy greens last longer when wrapped in damp paper towels and stored in the fridge, while root vegetables keep well in cool, dark conditions. Tomatoes should be stored at room temperature for the best flavor.

End-of-Season Cleanup and Future Planning

Once the growing season ends, cleaning up the garden prepares it for next year’s success. Remove spent plants and compost healthy plant material to enrich the soil. Avoid composting diseased plants to prevent future issues. Consider planting a cover crop like clover or rye to replenish nutrients and prevent soil erosion over winter.

Additionally, reflect on what worked well and what didn’t. Keeping notes on crop performance, pest challenges, and harvest yields helps refine your approach for next season. Properly clean and store gardening tools to extend their lifespan and maintain efficiency.




Three Garden Resolutions for the New Year

By: Lindsey Cline-Shrader

Whether you clink champagne glasses in your cocktail best or from your couch, it’s impossible to escape the fever of new beginnings this time of year. The new year buzzes with the promise of fresh starts, making it the perfect time to nurture a new garden ethic or adventure. Here are three impactful garden resolutions for 2025: transitioning to organic methods, creating pollinator havens, and starting a lush vegetable patch.

1. Make the Switch to Sustainable Gardening

Sustainable gardening fosters healthier, more resilient gardens that benefit both your backyard and the ecosystem beyond.

One impactful way to begin this transition is to cease herbicide and pesticide use. These toxic chemicals seep into the soil and trickle into waterways, disrupting soil microbes that form the base of our delicate food web and decimating beneficial insect populations, such as bees and butterflies.

Embracing organic weed control protects the delicate balance of beneficial life thriving in your garden. In garden beds, simple practices like mulching, which suppresses weeds while enriching the soil, or hand-pulling persistent invaders can replace chemical sprays’ quick but damaging effects. Ask yourself if you can make peace with dandelions and violets in your lawn? (No one has yet to criticize my less-than-perfect turf.)

There are gentler options than commercial herbicides for stubborn weeds in stonework. If aggressive crabgrass or the like threatens to take over your patio, try flame weeding, which involves burning weeds with a propane torch (check local fire restrictions before doing so). Or, a mixture of three-part vinegar to one-part table salt and several drops of dish soap acts as a natural weed killer. (Many recipes call for commercial-grade vinegar, which I find unnecessary.) This mixture also damages soil, but the effects are reduced in paved areas and far less catastrophic than industrial herbicides.

Occasionally, herbicides may be the most effective solution for removing invasive species. In these instances, paint it on newly cut stems, roots, or stumps with a paintbrush rather than spraying to reduce environmental impacts. As always, wear protective gear. Be aware that in response to lawsuits over Roundup’s links to cancer, chemical company Bayer recently replaced glyphosate, the active ingredient in most Roundup products, with new herbicides. Unfortunately, independent studies suggest these replacements are even more toxic to insects, trees, and humans than the original glyphosate-based formulas. Glyphosate is still available at local garden stores.

By avoiding insecticides, we protect beneficial predators and allow plants to strengthen their defenses through natural insect interactions. Insects improve plant resiliency—a nibble from a caterpillar or nematode encourages plants to utilize their natural defenses by producing protective compounds or toughening their tissues. This interaction helps plants adapt, boosting their defenses against future insects. Plants’ roots send out signals to one another, helping entire plant communities maintain resiliency.

Spiders and predator insects, such as wasps, praying mantes, ladybugs, and beetles, help control prey insect populations like mosquitoes and flies. Insecticides indiscriminately kill beneficial insects and disrupt this natural pest control. Transitioning to organic gardening may require patience and dedication, but the reward is a garden full of resilient, vibrant life.

2. Create a Pollinator Paradise

Pollinators are critical to ecosystems and food production, yet they face increasing threats. This year, take simple steps to create a sanctuary for them by leaving perennial stems high, fallen leaves where they lie, and planting for all three seasons.

Leaf cover and plant stems are vital winter shelters for overwintering insects. By letting leaves remain in your garden beds, you mimic the forest floor’s rich, insulating carpet, cradling insect life through the colder months while enriching your soil. Similarly, hollow plant stems and native grasses offer nesting and hiding places, protecting pollinators in their most vulnerable states.

Three seasons of blooming plant life sustains pollinators (and ourselves) throughout the year. While summer blooms are easily covered, early spring and late fall bloomers fill essential gaps for pollinators. Early-blooming ephemerals like bloodroot, Virginia bluebells, or native trees provide much-needed nectar for emerging pollinators. Late-season stalwarts like asters and goldenrods support these crucial creatures as they head into hibernation or prepare for migration.

3. Grow Your Own Fresh Harvest

Amidst busy lives, harvesting a sun-warmed tomato or a crisp kale leaf from your garden is profoundly fulfilling. Starting a vegetable patch is a New Year’s resolution that not only reduces waste and promises a bounty of fresh, healthy food but creates a deeper connection to nature (and, per my therapist, counts as rest for the busy-minded).

Perennials are an easy gateway to gardening as they forgive the constant seeding and weeding. Plant them once, and they’ll reward you with years of harvests and minimal upkeep. My favorites are blueberry and currant shrubs and a grape arbor, which also provides summer shade. Perennials like asparagus, artichokes, and rhubarb (as well as annual squashes) require space but little else.

If you’re going for gold, raised beds offer better drainage and soil depth. Two 4’ x 4’ cedar raised beds keep our family flush with easy-to-grow cucumbers, kale, tomatoes, garlic, and green beans. Rich, loamy soil gives vegetables the best start, and a drip hose will keep them thriving throughout the season.

These three garden resolutions reflect care for the environment, an eye for natural beauty, and a heart for personal growth. Here’s to a year of sowing new habits and reaping the rewards. Next year, we’ll toast your success among your flourishing sanctuary, whether it be a drift of milkweed, a simple patch of pumpkins, or a thriving space full of blooms.




Winter Birdwatching: How to Create a Bird-Friendly Garden

As winter settles in, many of us retreat indoors to escape the chill, but there’s a whole world of activity outside that’s worth paying attention to—especially when it comes to birds. Winter birdwatching can be a rewarding hobby, and by creating a bird-friendly garden, you can provide crucial support to our feathered friends during the colder months. With the right food, water, and shelter, your garden can become a safe haven for local birds, many of which may visit your backyard throughout the winter season. For those living in Central Virginia, a diverse range of bird species can be spotted, making it the perfect opportunity to turn your garden into a winter bird sanctuary.

Providing Food: A Lifeline for Winter Birds

In the harsh winter months, food becomes the most critical resource for birds. In Central Virginia, where winters can be cold and often snowy, many birds rely on garden feeders for sustenance when natural food sources are scarce. Offering the right mix of seeds, suet, and other food options will attract a variety of species to your garden.

Seed Feeders
Black oil sunflower seeds are a winter favorite among many bird species, offering high fat content and energy. A good option for both tube and platform feeders, they are ideal for attracting Northern Cardinals, Blue Jays, and Chickadees. You can also try mixing in sunflower seed hearts, which are husk-free and less messy.

Suet
Suet is an excellent choice during the winter because it’s high in fat, providing birds with the necessary energy to endure the cold. Hang suet cakes or balls in mesh bags from trees or feeders to attract woodpeckers, nuthatches, and even Carolina Wrens. Adding bits of dried fruit or peanuts to suet can entice even more bird varieties.

Nyjer (Thistle) Seed
Nyjer seed is a high-energy food loved by small songbirds, especially American Goldfinches and Pine Siskins. These finches tend to flock to feeders with thistle seed, particularly during the winter months when their natural food sources are limited.

Peanuts and Other Nuts
In Central Virginia, you can expect to attract birds like Blue Jays, Chickadees, and Titmice with peanuts. Whole or shelled peanuts, either in feeders or placed in the yard, will encourage these birds to visit. If you’re hoping to attract the large and colorful Red-bellied Woodpecker, consider offering cracked corn or peanut butter as well.

Fruit
In addition to seeds and suet, offering fruit like oranges, apples, and raisins can attract robins, Eastern Bluebirds, and even Cedar Waxwings, all of which may migrate through the region in winter or stay year-round. Simply slice the fruit and hang it in trees or on a feeder.

Providing Water: Essential for Survival in the Winter

Water is just as important as food for birds during the winter months. While birds can often find food at feeders, they struggle to find fresh, unfrozen water. Providing a constant supply of water can make your garden even more appealing to winter birds.

Birdbaths
A birdbath is one of the best ways to offer water to wintering birds. Be sure to keep the water from freezing. There are various options for birdbath heaters that keep the water from freezing even in cold temperatures. If a heated bath is not an option, placing a shallow pan of water in a sheltered area (and changing it regularly) can help. Birds like Northern Cardinals, Mourning Doves, and even the occasional Downy Woodpecker will appreciate a consistent water source during the winter.

Running Water
If you have the means, a small fountain or drip water feature is even more enticing for birds. The sound of running water attracts species like American Robins, Brown Thrashers, and Carolina Wrens. A small, solar-powered fountain or a drip line connected to a garden hose can add both visual appeal and much-needed hydration.

Providing Shelter: Creating Safe, Cozy Spots for Birds

Winter is harsh, and birds need shelter to stay warm and protected from predators. Creating safe spaces for birds to perch, roost, and nest is crucial for ensuring their survival during the cold months.

Native Shrubs and Trees
Planting native shrubs and trees in your garden is one of the best ways to provide shelter. Evergreen trees such as pines, spruces, and firs offer year-round cover, especially during snowstorms or heavy winds. Many birds, including Northern Cardinals, Tufted Titmice, and Red-tailed Hawks, will use the dense foliage of these trees to hide from predators or to roost in comfort.

Nest Boxes
Even though many birds aren’t nesting in the winter, a properly placed nest box can provide important shelter. Many species, including Chickadees, Nuthatches, and Eastern Bluebirds, use nest boxes in winter as sheltered resting spots. Be sure to clean out old nests and position the boxes away from heavy winds, ideally in a more sheltered part of your yard.

Brush Piles and Rock Piles
Piles of branches, logs, and rocks create a natural, low-maintenance shelter for birds. These areas provide cover for smaller birds, such as Sparrows and Juncos, who will use them as places to hide from predators or rest. The fallen leaves can also help to insulate the ground and provide additional shelter.

Thick Hedgerows
Thick hedgerows or dense shrubs can provide both shelter and food. Species like the Eastern Towhee, Northern Flicker, and various sparrows love these areas for both protection and food. Dense shrubs are also an excellent place for birds to take refuge during snowy days.

Common Winter Birds in Central Virginia

Winter birdwatching in Central Virginia offers the chance to see a wide variety of species. Some common birds that can be spotted during the winter months include:

  • Northern Cardinal: Known for their striking red plumage, cardinals are year-round residents and are often seen flitting around feeders during the colder months.
  • Blue Jay: These vibrant, intelligent birds are often found around feeders, particularly if you’re offering peanuts or sunflower seeds.
  • Dark-eyed Junco: Commonly seen foraging on the ground beneath bird feeders, these small sparrows are a familiar sight in winter gardens.
  • Carolina Wren: With their cheery songs and energetic behavior, these small, brown birds can often be found in shrubby areas or near birdhouses.
  • Downy Woodpecker: A regular visitor to suet feeders, this small woodpecker is known for its drumming on tree trunks.
  • American Goldfinch: Often seen at thistle feeders, these small yellow songbirds brighten up the winter landscape.
  • White-throated Sparrow: With their distinctive white throat and striking plumage, these sparrows are often seen hopping around under feeders.
  • Mourning Dove: These graceful birds are common winter residents in Central Virginia, often seen perched on tree branches or foraging on the ground.

A Winter Wonderland for Birds

Creating a bird-friendly garden in winter is not only a great way to support wildlife, but it also provides an opportunity for birdwatchers to enjoy the beauty and diversity of nature right in their own backyard. By providing food, water, and shelter, you’ll attract a range of species to your garden, creating a lively, colorful atmosphere even on the coldest of days. Whether you’re watching a Northern Cardinal perch on a snow-covered branch or observing a Downy Woodpecker feeding on suet, winter birdwatching in Central Virginia is a peaceful and rewarding way to connect with nature throughout the season.