Destination: Appomattox, VA

It’s no secret that our beautiful state of Virginia is rich with history, and nestled right in the “heart” of it—just a hop, skip, and jump away from us—lies the cozy and historically significant town of Appomattox. The quaint, little town full of Southern charm claims a total area of just 2.2 square miles, but is jam-packed with things to do. Complete with Civil War museums, multiple state parks, unique shops, and delicious places to eat, Appomattox is the perfect place to venture for the day with your family, best friends, or significant other.

What to See

Calling all history buffs! At the time of the Civil War, Appomattox was the site of a railroad depot on the line between Petersburg and Lynchburg and is perhaps most famously known as being the site of Confederate General Robert E. Lee’s surrender to Union General Ulysses S. Grant on April 9, 1865, which helped end the Civil War. All of this to say, the small town has its fair share of museums and other historical sites to offer.

Start with a tour of the Appomattox Court House, preserved as a National Historical Park, and where Lee surrendered. Just down the road, you’ll find the American Civil War Museum that contains an impressive collection of artifacts, documents, photographs, and more. The Appomattox County Historical Society Museum and Library is located in Courthouse Square and also houses many historic relics. The building actually served as the county jail beginning in 1897. Enjoy a glimpse into 19th-century life at Clover Hill Village, where you can browse through numerous historical buildings such as log cabins, a schoolhouse, working blacksmith shop, general store, and more. Other Civil War–related spots worth taking a peek at include the Carver-Price Legacy Museum and the Joel Sweeney Birthplace and Gravesite.

Nature lovers can spend time reveling in the great outdoors, whether it’s hiking or biking in one of the three state parks nearby (James River State Park, Holliday Lake State Park, and High Bridge Trail State Park), or unwinding on Falling River Country Club’s unique 18-hole golf course complete with snack bar and driving range, as well as a swimming pool.

“Falling River is a player-friendly country club that offers many amenities,” says Faber Jamerson, PGA member, who heads up the course. “The club has multiple sets of tee boxes that will suit any and all skill levels, whether it be a beginner just learning to play or a player with many years of experience.”

Jamerson is originally from Appomattox and grew up at Falling River Country Club, which opened in 1965.

“Falling River has some of the best playing surfaces in Central Virginia while also being very affordable,” he says.

Take a seat at Wolfbane Productions’ Wolf P.A.C., a Broadway-style outdoor venue featuring matinees, interactive dinner theater, and more. Check out their website (wolfbane.org) for a calendar of events as well as ticket information. If theater is your thing, the Appomattox Courthouse Players at Courthouse Square also offer varied dramatic productions including musicals, mysteries and comedies, as well as original productions relating to historical events.

Where to Shop

Take a break from sight-seeing and peruse downtown’s charming shops. That’s Too Cute Boutique, owned by Penny and George Welch, offers a variety of items available to be personalized, including shirts, jackets, towels, pillow cases, baby blankets, and baby clothing. Country Charm is a family-run and -owned business and carries a large mix of seasonal products ranging from home décor to gifts to wreaths.

“We offer everything from garden flags to delicious dips and soups to handcrafted jewelry to local lavender products,” says Beth Turner, who runs the shop with her mother. “Pop in and see always friendly faces, or possibly an old friend, and end your shopping day with a hand-dipped ice cream while sitting on our porch and watching the train roll through.”

Nina Bell’s Cottage also has cute gift items, unique jewelry, signs, and clothing. In addition, they will redo just about any type of furniture. The store recently received Lynchburg’s Best of Business Awards gold medal for best gifts. Antique lovers must check out It’s All Good, which has a wide variety of antiques and home furnishings and claims to have something for everyone, as well as Antiques and Treasures. Give your legs a breather and be sure to visit Baine’s Books and Coffee, an independent, locally-owned, community bookstore and coffee shop. This unique hangout spot offers so much more than its title suggests, including vinyl records, pottery, and live music.

Places to Dine

Looking for a quick bite to eat? Make a pit stop at The Taco Wagon, a food truck that serves authentic Mexican food including tacos (of course), burritos, quesadillas, and more. Or, grab a giant slice at Mamma Terezinha’s, a hidden gem that boasts excellent, New York-style pizza complete with homemade sauce and fresh fixings. For good ol’ Southern comfort food, look no further than Granny Bee’s, THE down-home diner on Main Street, serving food items like country ham, green beans, corn pudding, and chocolate meringue pies. And, last but definitely not least, if you want to truly indulge, be sure to check out The Babcock House, which features a changing, seasonal menu in an effort to work with only the freshest ingredients. Located in a cozy inn, this highly-rated farm-to-table restaurant offers lunch and supper Wednesday through Saturday as well as brunch on Sunday. They also offer homemade desserts, house-crafted specialty cocktails, and a variety of Virginia wines and beers.

“We strive for the highest quality food by making everything from scratch—from desserts to dressings and sauces,” says Talia Clusman, Owner/Innkeeper of The Babcock House.

Chef Charles has even been voted top local chef by “The Burg” two years in a row. The bed and breakfast also partners frequently with Wolfbane Productions.

“[We] have several special events planned for the year from holiday buffets to five-course wine and beer dinners,” Clusman says. Details can be found on their website (babcockhouse.com).

Also, be on the lookout for a brand new microbrewery coming to Appomattox in April. Krikelkay Brewing Company is set to open in the Triangle Plaza on Old Courthouse Road and will feature a variety of craft beers. Owners and founders Keith and Lori Vogt named the brewery after their three daughters, Kristen, Kelly, and Kayla.

So, whether you’re searching for a cozy spot to get your grub on, wanting to go antiquing in a quaint, Southern town, or anxious to dive into loads of history, Appomattox holds the perfect smorgasbord of activities with something for everyone to experience, making it an ideal day trip destination.

Offers Exceptional Tranquility, Bountiful Feasts And Equestrian Adventures In Virginia’s Horse And Hunt Country

I’m not a horse person, per se. I haven’t been around them much, other than the ones in our neighbor’s yard that I used to sneak sugar cubes to when I was a kid, and I’ve never had the urge to hop on a saddle and trot around, let alone gallop. And yet, here I am, climbing on a 1,200-pound, Norwegian Fjord named Odin, and heading out for an afternoon ride.

You may wonder what, after 31 years of being slightly timid around horses, has sparked my equestrian interest. The answer isn’t quite a what but rather a where. I’m visiting Salamander Resort & Spa, a luxurious country estate in Washington D.C.’s horse, hunt and wine country, and I’m not about to pass up the chance to roam a few of the property’s 25 equestrian acres.

After adjusting my helmet and giving Odin a friendly nudge, off we go. But we don’t get very far. As I watch the rest of the group leisurely trot toward the trail through the woods, Odin, surprisingly keen to my inability to steer, meanders in the opposite direction and stops to graze on a patch of grass. Despite my feeble attempts of softly patting his back and verbally coaxing him, “C’mon, boy, follow your pals up ahead,” he could clearly sense that I had no idea what I was doing, and he had no intention of giddying up.

Thankfully, our guide noticed the difficulty I was having right out of the gate (literally) and came over to assist, instructing me to be firmer with my kicks and use the reigns to steer Odin back to the trail. Before long, we’ve rejoined the group and I’m feeling relaxed as we traipse through the quiet woods, experiencing nature in a way that I never have before.

As relaxing as the trail ride turns out to be, I’m about to experience unbridled levels of tranquility at Salamander Spa, complete with aromatic steam rooms, sun-drenched relaxation spaces and a secluded spa courtyard with an infinity-edge pool and cabanas. The spa’s main interior is adorned with sophisticated blue tiles, with a stunning Vitality Pool that beckons to be soaked in and heated Tepidarium loungers ready for relaxing. In total there are 23,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor spa and wellness amenities, including a couple’s spa suite and 14 exquisitely appointed treatment rooms.

The treatments here are incomparable to what you’d find at most standard spas. They offer Rasal, a unique, Hammam-inspired thermal mud treatment offered in a private ceramic temple; wraps geared to anti-aging and full body exfoliation; a selection of facials aimed at healthy skin and radiant glows; and a variety of massages, including Deep Tissue (focused on releasing chronic muscle tension); Well Being (Swedish-style) and even a Couples’ Experience which includes 25 minutes of suite escape time and a complimentary glass of Prosecco. I opt for a specialized Balancing Treatment, which calms the mind, refreshes the feet and energizes the lungs, and I leave feeling more rejuvenated and centered than I have in months.

The sun is just beginning to set over Salamander’s gorgeous landscape, so I take the opportunity to explore the property by foot. Salamander sits on 340 acres where guests can take part in all kinds of activities such as hiking, tennis courts and lawn games including croquet, bocce ball, corn hole and life-sized chess. The scene is more serene today, though. Guests are relaxing by expansive fire pits and sipping wine on cushioned patio furniture by the ivy-adorned terrace.

I journey down to a quiet pond where benches are placed for gazing on the water, then back up the hill where I discover a delightful garden.

There are rows of swiss chard and lettuces of vibrant greens and purples, along with an aromatic assortment of fresh herbs, situated among flowers and vines bursting from the sides of paths and twinkling lights strewn above, lending a magical feel to this lush outdoor space. It’s here in the culinary garden where chefs select the freshest ingredients for flavorful dishes featured at Salamander’s on-site restaurant, Harrimans Virginia Piedmont Grill, where I’m dining this evening.

The menu at Harrimans celebrates the rich resources and history of Virginia’s most abundant region. Menu selections from the Butcher’s Block abound, with items like Not Your Mother’s Pork Chop featuring pork from Autumn Olive Farms in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley; or a Cowboy Cut, 2-ounce prime bone-in ribeye with smoked pancetta pesto. But there are plenty of succulent seafood dishes, as well as some vegetarian options to tempt every palate.

Finding it impossible to decide on just one of these impeccable options, I go for an assortment, starting with the Crispy Cauliflower—perfectly crunchy cauliflower florets, coated in a delicate sauce and topped with Calabrian chili, parsley and Parmigiano Reggiano. Next on the lighter side: Salt Roasted Beets diced and topped with watercress and mint, paired with toasted pistachios and with a smattering of yogurt; as well as Honey Glazed Rainbow Carrots, served with spiced Greek yogurt, parsnips and Carrot Top Salsa Verde. For my main course I indulge in Applewood Smoked Diver Scallops in brown butter with a smooth cauliflower puree, truffle vinaigrette, preserved lemon relish and aged Villa Manodori Balsamic. Desserts at Harrimans are not to be missed, with seasonal options available to tempt a variety of sweet tooth cravings, each with the option of being paired with a sommelier’s suggestion.

After-dinner drinks are recommended in the resort’s opulent study, adorned in rich, dark wood with leather furniture, fireplaces blazing, assorted reading material and a luxury 3D edition game of Clue. Maybe tomorrow. Tonight I’m ready to rest my head in a comfortably lavish room and prepare for another perfect day in Virginia’s hunt and horse country.

Book your stay at SalamanderResort.com.

with this Festive Bucket List of Virginia Destinations

By Grace Silipigni

From a holiday performance at a 20th-century theatre to an enchanted adventure down Candy Cane Lane, Virginia is not lacking in Christmas spirit. Of the thousands of events taking place across the state this holiday season, we’ve uncovered the five most festive attractions that are sure to fill you and your family with holiday cheer. An added bonus? What sets these destinations apart from others in the state are their remarkable histories. Each site boasts hundreds of years of Christmas traditions that introduce visitors to the spirit of Christmas past.

Colonial Williamsburg is beaming with Christmas cheer and myriad historic happenings. The 17th-century drive of E. Duke of Gloucester Street is dotted with modestly decorated taverns and homes that glow beneath the fiery embers of sidewalk lanterns.

On December 2, the entire settlement is set ablaze with gun smoke and extravagant firework displays from the Governor’s Palace, the Magazine and the Capitol. Trust us, this Grand Illumination is a Williamsburg tradition worth traveling for.

Farther down what the locals call “DoG Street” is Charlton’s Coffeehouse. On select Thursdays and Sundays throughout December, the former watering hole hosts evening caroling sessions for Williamsburg visitors.

The musical merriment continues in Merchant Square as popular Christmas songs ring loudly through the speakers that border the square’s outdoor skating rink. Colonial enthusiasts of all ages can enjoy hours of ice skating in Williamsburg’s historic center.

We recommend seeking reprieve from the December chill in Aromas World with a piping hot pour of their signature Oyster Point White Mocha. For non-coffee drinkers, afternoon tea at the luxurious Williamsburg Inn is also a must. Their scratch-made scones rival those of even the greatest pastry chefs in
Williamsburg history.

Our Festive Favorite:
Buy a commemorative Colonial Williamsburg ornament from The Christmas Shop in Merchant’s Square.

Just outside Washington D.C.’s metropolitan area lie the red brick sidewalks of Old Town Alexandria. While these riverfront walkways exude charm all year long, they appear particularly enchanting come December.

The first weekend of December is particularly busy for Old Town as it hosts its annual two-day Scottish Walk Parade, complete with bagpipes, drums and Santa Claus, as well as the merry and bright Alexandria Holiday Boat Parade of Lights.

As the parade festivities wind down, grab a wintery latte from Misha’s Coffeehouse & Roaster and embark on a self-guided tour of Old Town’s cheerfully decorated restaurants, homes and boutiques. King Street, in particular, presents holiday visitors with a host of Christmas-inspired goods. At the top of our shopping list is the annual 116 King Holiday Pop Up, which introduces festive fashions from Northern Virginia’s emerging designers.

Surrounding King Street are blocks of rowhomes merrily embellished with wreaths, candles and twinkling white lights. During the Historic Alexandria Candlelight Tour, you’ll discover that these historic residences are not only inhabited by locals, but by seasonal spirits that have dwelled in Old Town for centuries.

Our Festive Favorite:
Sample a Christmas cocktail at Captain Gregory’s on N. Henry Street.

Never underestimate the thrill of a quintessential small-town Christmas. Year after year, Abingdon is recognized as one of Virginia’s top Christmas towns for its holiday farmers markets, dazzling Main Street and handful of cozy eateries.

The historic 1930s Barter Theatre is arguably one of the most highly revered Christmas attractions in all of Abingdon. Thirteen years after its construction in 1933, the Barter Theatre was deemed the State Theatre of Virginia and has been home to some of the Commonwealth’s greatest holiday performances ever since. Included in this winter’s holiday line-up are musical renditions of two Christmas favorites, “ELF” and “Santa Claus is Coming to Town,” as well as daily theatrical performances of “Wooden Snowflakes” and the adults-only “Santaland Diaries.”

A pre- or post-show stroll down Abingdon’s Main Street should also be high on your to-do list. Explore the many boutiques, galleries and artisan restaurants nestled into the town’s 18th-century structures.

Need a place to stay? Abingdon’s Martha Washington Inn & Spa has our vote. The bygone residence of General Francis Preston is now a premier Virginia hotel that manifests into a 19th-century winter wonderland every December. Imbibe a port cocktail by the lobby’s roaring fireplace or rise early for Martha’s signature holiday brunch.

Our Festive Favorite:
Join weekend carolers for a Christmas sing-a-long in Main Street’s Town Park.

Since 1893, James and Sallie Dooley have opened their Victorian residence to Maymont visitors for an expansive holiday feast. The stone mansion is spectacularly decorated with ornate garland, red ribbon, poinsettia bouquets and a 12-foot Christmas tree embellished with hundreds of antique ornaments. You can even experience the holiday preparations first-hand at Maymont’s wreath decorating class in the Stone Barn.

Maymont visitors can tour the Dooley estate by foot or board a horse-drawn carriage for a ride around the grounds. We also recommend the Maymont by Moonlight tour to witness the park in all of its Christmas glory with glimmering lights, blazing bonfires and cheery carols.
If you can’t make the moonlight tour, no need to worry—the mansion rings with jingle bells and Christmas music throughout the entire holiday season.

Our Festive Favorite:
Travel 10 minutes into Downtown Richmond to see the extraordinary Christmas display at the historic Jefferson Hotel.

Nestled in the Shenandoah Valley is a whimsical Candy Cane Lane complete with oversized gingerbread figures, giant candy canes, friendly reindeer and a neighboring Toyland. Firepits fit for marshmallow roasting and hot chocolate sipping boast specular views of the valley’s surrounding mountain tops. All this and more await at the Omni Homestead Resort in Hot Springs.

Every year, the historic retreat hosts Holiday at the Homestead, a month-long celebration of everything Christmas. In addition to their expansive Christmas village and s’mores stop, the Homestead invites resort guests to partake in its resort-wide sing-a-longs and a cappella performances.

For those willing to brave the Bath County cold, the Homestead also offers skiing lessons for first-time slope riders and other snow activities for Hot Springs’ littlest visitors. Embark on the Homestead Holiday Express Hayride too, and experience a magical ride through the resort’s wintery forest.

Bedtime stories with Santa’s Elves are our favorite way to close a day of Christmas fun. Classic Christmas tales are shared nearly every evening in the regal Washington Library.

Our Festive Favorite:
Snap a photo in front of the Great Hall Christmas Tree picked from Avery County, North Carolina, the Christmas Tree Capital of the World.

In Nelson County

By Shannon Brennan photos by Ken Wyner

Just uphill from the entrance to the Wintergreen Resort, a tiny German village awaits visitors who want an old-world experience.

The Fenton Inn boasts beautiful mountain views, boutique rooms with elaborate woodwork and a tasty breakfast.

From many of the rooms, visitors can gaze upon wild turkey or perhaps even a bear. Although this hidden getaway has been open less than two years, visitors from around the world have discovered it, including a Buddhist nun from Taiwan and tourists from South Africa.

What’s most impressive about this inn, however, is the amount of labor that Will and Lilia Fenton invested during the four years it took to build. “There were only four hours with a crane on the whole job,” said Will, noting that he had only two younger helpers to do all the other heavy lifting. Just one set of windows weighed 300 pounds.

A woodworker by trade, it’s fair to call Will more than an amateur architect. He designed the entire project and visitors are hard pressed to find many 90-degree angles.

“I’ve got my octagons down now,” he said.

While much of the inspiration for the inn came from visits to Europe, Will also drew ideas from his past work at Monticello, Poplar Forest and Colonial Williamsburg.

All the wood in the inn was cut and milled on site. Even the smallest pieces were preserved for use in Will’s sometimes whimsical creations.

Each of the six guest rooms has a different theme and each door in the inn is a work of art. Will used different types of wood to create intricate designs, but he doesn’t want to show them in photos because he doesn’t want to spoil the surprise.

The rooms offer lovely views of the Three Ridges, a popular 10-mile Appalachian Trail hike from Reeds Gap on the Blue Ridge Parkway to the Tye River on U.S. 60. In one room, the Swallow’s Nest, guests can even see the view from a large windowed shower.

Will is building a new cabin that will be pet-friendly and distinctly separate from the other guest rooms.

A meeting space is designed for a small wedding with up to 10 guests or an intimate place for any special gathering.

Lilia, a native of Crimea, helps run the inn and prepare the breakfasts—which include homemade granola with berries and yogurt—that are not to be missed. French toast, Belgian waffles, omelets and sausage are common menu items served in the bakery, which also provides stunning mountain views.

Lilia and Will met in Crimea, where Will had gone for architectural inspiration. Crimeans, he said, have a flag of every nation that has ever conquered them so they can raise the right flag when the next invader comes, which seems to happen every 50 years or so.

Most recently, Russian President Vladimir Putin made headlines when he annexed Crimea away from the Ukraine in 2014, provoking international outcry. Lilia says it is now too dangerous to return home.

Lilia has no need to leave Nelson County, however. She and Will love the quiet spot on their mountainside.

Lilia grew up on the Black Sea coast. Her father was a doctor, and they lived in a castle-like home in a summer beach town. She attended medical school and received her doctor degree in medicine.

Will grew up near Albany, New York, and spent summers hiking in the Adirondack Mountains. He graduated from the University of Arizona after studying architecture and finance. Returning to New York, he studied historic restoration and worked on some notable Dutch homes in the Hudson Valley. Following his passion for history, he moved to Virginia to work at Monticello.

From there he was recruited to Thomas Jefferson’s summer home, Poplar Forest, where he helped with the complete rebuild, guided by Jefferson’s original letters. Will worked at many other museums, including Robert E. Lee’s birthplace, Stratford Hall, and Yorktown.

Ever drawn to the mountains, Will spent his time off biking the Blue Ridge Parkway or hiking along the Appalachian Trail. His favorite day hike was Three Ridges. One day he noticed land for sale with a view of his favorite mountain. He bought it, built a house, and later, the Fenton Inn.

The inn and village are truly a labor of love. After settling into a guest room, visitors can step onto the cobblestone streets and be transported back to medieval Germany. The village has a town square, clock tower, bakery, theater, gym, spa and gift shop.

The various braces and figures on the buildings each have historical meanings, like the Grudger head protecting from evil and envy. Inside the lobby, oak timbers soar in a full arch inspired by a medieval English church.

Near the entrance to the lobby is “the longest drawbridge in Nelson County,” though it wouldn’t keep out invaders.

Just down the hillside is a beautifully landscaped terrace with a hot tub, perfect for stargazing on a clear night.

Because breakfast is the only meal served, guests will likely want to leave the inn in search of lunch and dinner at nearby Wintergreen Resort, Devil’s Backbone Brewing Co. or one of several other restaurants, breweries, wineries and cideries back down the mountain off Virginia 151.

Multiple opportunities abound for hiking and bird watching, golf, and in the winter, skiing at Wintergreen.

Lilia said they stay booked on weekends, and weekdays are more likely to be free. During an early summer visit, my partner and I shared the inn with three bikers from Michigan who were on their way to a Vespa convention in Richmond.

The Internet creates interesting combinations of visitors. Will said he has been most amazed to have guests from Mozambique and most surprised that no Australians have found them yet. That probably won’t take long.

In a very short time, visitors can see how much work went into every detail of the inn and village. Will has a simple explanation for the effort.

“I had a European wife and had to make a suitable habitat,” he said.

To plan your stay, visit www.fentoninn.com, call (434) 325-7540 or email innkeeper@fentoninn.com.

Without Leaving the City of Lynchburg

Looking for a new workout… on the water? You don’t have to trek all the way to Smith Mountain Lake to get your feet wet in the world of kayaking. During the summer, beginners can start with the basics by signing up for lessons at Clemmons Lake in Lynchburg’s Ivy Creek Park. Then, as you gain more experience, you can take your kayaking skills to the James River, Smith Mountain Lake and beyond.

We asked Debbie Hoffbeck, a certified instructor and chief naturalist with Lynchburg Parks and Rec, to tell us why this is an outdoor activity everyone should try.

How did you get into kayaking?

I didn’t start kayaking until later in my life, about 15 years ago. I tried it with a group of friends during a trip to a state park in Pennsylvania and I fell in love. I bought my own boat and joined a kayaking club. Later, I got a chance to work for Lynchburg Parks and Rec and got certified to teach.

What is it about kayaking that got you hooked?

I just love being on the water. To me it’s a very inexpensive way to get out on the water and have some fun. I do a lot of kayaking at Smith Mountain Lake State Park. When you are down there on the water, you can take your time along the edge and enjoy sightseeing the nature around you.

Do you recommend certain ages or fitness levels?

Some people think you have to be super athletic. But kayaking is so easy. I know people who are 75 years old and love it. As long as you love being outdoors and being on the water anyone can do it.

But it’s still a good workout, right?

Oh yes, and it’s a full body workout. You might think it’s all your arms and shoulders. But if you are kayaking the right way, you are rotating your whole core. Because if you use only your shoulder muscles, you would wear out pretty fast. The other thing is you are engaging your legs too by using the foot pegs inside the kayak. You are doing everything.

How can someone get started?

Beginners should sign up for lessons at Clemmons Lake at Ivy Creek Park. We teach classes to children as young as 8 years old starting in 2018. Both myself and my staff are certified by the American Canoe Association (ACA). Then once you know how to do it, you can rent a kayak from May through September. Just check our website for lessons and rentals:
lynchburgparksandrec.com/our-parks/ivy-creek-park.

After the beginner level, what would someone’s next step be?

After you get some experience on flat water, James River State Park, about 45 minutes from here, is a great place to go on a really easy river excursion. You can also rent kayaks at Smith Mountain Lake State Park, which I mentioned is one of my favorites. If you go to the ACA website, you can find all kinds of instructors who offer more advanced classes in kayaking.

Any Final Words Of Advice?

I would encourage people to at least try kayaking one time. Just to see if it’s the type of thing they would like to do again. You won’t regret it!

James River Adventures

You can find another local kayaking opportunity in Lynchburg—within view of downtown! James River Adventures opened in 2017 at Riveredge Park in Madison Heights. They offer hourly canoe and kayak rentals which include a safety orientation, personal flotation device, shuttle and more. Book your trip today online at jamesriveradventures.org!

Visit lynchburgliving.com to read our feature profile about James River Adventures in the July/August issue of Lynchburg Living.

Connect with Nature… Without Sacrificing Comfort

My husband is an Eagle Scout who spent lots of time backpacking throughout Virginia; thus, he digs camping. I didn’t last a day in Brownies back on my native Long Island and have never actually been camping. Now, while the notion of telling ghost stories around a fire, playing music, roasting hot dogs, and making s’mores appeals to me, the idea of spending the night in sleeping bags and tents does not. No AC, no running water, no bathroom? No thank you!

So the question looms: how can my husband and I enjoy the great outdoors together? Glamping! Glamourous camping combines the best in modern luxuries with rustic settings and views aplenty, and Virginia is home to several properties that each has its own unique (and posh) spin on the glamping concept. Sign me up!

Look Out from a Treehouse

The Primland Resort in Meadows of Dan is known for its remarkable 12,000 acres of secluded Blue Ridge mountaintop complete with top-rated cuisine and first-class service. Over the past several years, guests have had the chance to take advantage of the resort’s newest accommodations: three luxury treehouses.

Primland vice president Steve Helms says the idea came from one of the resort’s owners who knew Mr. Alain Laurens, famous for his treehouse work in Europe. Laurens, who has built more than 200 treehouses throughout Europe, accepted the invitation to visit the resort and look for a great tree to use as the first treehouse. This project at Primland became Laurens’ first treehouse project in the U.S. He designed and built the Golden Eagle house for Primland in 2011. “It was constructed in France and shipped to Virginia in two containers, and it took only two weeks to reconstruct the treehouse on site,” says Helms.

All three treehouses are located at the end of a ridge point with a view of Kibler Valley 1,500 feet below. According to Helms, the treehouses are “great for couples looking for a peaceful getaway or for celebrating a special occasion. The deck is also a perfect spot for a proposal or writing the next best seller!” Guests stay upwards of 1,300 feet high and enjoy privacy and stargazing in addition to having access to all of the amenities of the greater resort.

Any season is perfect for staying in a treehouse, says Helms. “Spring has more in bloom along with baby fawns, turkey chicks, and wildlife coming out. Summer has lush greenery and cool mountain breezes. Fall has the mountainsides transforming to vibrant red, orange and yellow as the leaves change. And winter allows for clear views and the ability to see the rock outcroppings on the mountainsides.”

Booking Tip:
Bring the kids to Primland, but not to the treehouses, since children are not permitted in these accommodations. Also, the treehouses are closed in January and February.

Channel Your Inner Nomad

Ever since I saw A River Runs Through It, I thought fly-fishing looked like fun (and no, it wasn’t just because I was a teenager and the film featured a young Brad Pitt). What looks like even more fun to me is staying in one of the new, modern yurts at Rose River Farm in Syria, Virginia.

Fly angler and outdoorsman Douglas Dear purchased 20 acres in the Rose River Valley (two hours north of Lynchburg) about 10 years ago and transformed it into Rose River Farm, a nature retreat for lovers of fly-fishing and the great outdoors. Guests stay in one of several yurts, which are circular tents typically made from canvas or wood that perform well in high wind terrains. Yurts originated in Mongolia, but Dear first saw them on a fly-fishing trip to Patagonia. “I liked them, and I kept thinking about them when I came back to the States. I just loved all the space that they offered—there’s no wasted space at all,” he explains.

Dear wanted to offer his guests the opportunity to stay in a yurt. “With our mountain views, they would fit the site really well, but with our climate in Virginia, canvas would get mildew,” he says. He contacted a company in Washington State that fabricated alternative yurt components, and a local contractor assembled them.

Each 1,100-square-foot yurt is made from steel and 2,500 separate pieces of cedar hand cut to fit. They feature full kitchens, Wi-Fi, and high-end club furniture. Fly anglers from around the world come to enjoy the Farm and families can fish on the stocked catch and release pond (or even take private fly-fishing lessons). If you don’t fish, don’t worry—you can still find immense enjoyment at Rose River Farm. Couples and families come to hike Old Rag Mountain, check out the wineries, or just kick back and read a book and relax. “We supply firewood for the fire pits every night, and that just becomes a big family event,” Dear says.

Booking Tip:
Make your reservations several months in advance and up to a year ahead of time for the October and November season.

Book a Tiny Cabin

When people hear that I’ve never been camping, they ask, “Would you stay in a cabin?” Evidently, cabins are the gateway to camping, and I’d be up for a weekend at a cabin for sure. One stellar example is Tim and Cindi Spaulding’s adorable tiny cabin in Big Island.

A few years ago, the Spauldings were hiking in Bedford County and started wondering what land would cost up near the mountains. They stumbled upon an old hiker’s loft that was in rough condition and thought, “Could we make it work?” In order to purchase the 2.5-acre property, they’d have to delay their planned kitchen renovation. “We decided to go with it and have some fun,” explains Tim. The Spauldings and their three young children spent every weekend up at the house, completely renovating the whole thing. “It was really a team effort,” he says.

Because the Spauldings originally purchased the cabin to use as a family getaway, they didn’t spare any expense or overlook any detail. However, it is a “tiny house,” with just 308 square feet of living space. To make it work for their family, “we decided to maximize the space as much as possible,” Spaulding says, so they deliberately designed the home to be bright, airy, and functional for everyday living (such as including a washer/dryer).

The Spaulding’s property is located near the Blue Ridge Parkway—ideal for hikers. The inside features a wood burning stove and a loft with a queen-sized bed; step outside and enjoy al fresco dining at the picnic table or a dip in Battery Creek. A swimming hole in Arnold Valley is just 10 minutes away. With wildlife, greenery, hammocks, and a fire pit right there, Spaulding says, “it’s a great place for a weekend getaway.”

Booking Tip:
The cabin is open year-round, but plan on making a reservation at least three months in advance in order to accommodate your desired date. You can find the Spaulding’s cabin on Airbnb: Airbnb.com/rooms/18385835.

Experience Native American Culture

For the past six years, outdoor enthusiasts have been taking advantage of the canopy tours, paddle boating, and mountain biking at Sandy River Outdoor Adventure and Retreat in Rice. With grounds that highlight a 3-hour tree top adventure (complete with tight ropes, swinging bridges, and zip lines), accommodations ought to fit the scenery. Interested guests can choose to stay in a cottage, one of the rustic log cabins, or one of four luxury tipis on the property, which are the newest additions to Sandy River.

That’s right: a luxury tipi. (It’s not an oxymoron.) Each comes with radiant heated floors, AC, a kitchenette, queen-sized beds, and a full bathroom. They also feature Wi-Fi and televisions with Netflix as well as fire pits, picnic tables, and grills.

Booking Tip:
The tipi fabric does not block daylight, so plan on waking up with the sun. A tipi rental also gives you 20% off on any adventure activities you book during your stay.

Other Glamping Sites In Virginia:

Seasonal glamper cottages at Blue Haven 151 Farm in Roseland

Custom luxury glamp sites by Solid Ground Shelters in Ruckersville

An old watch house and kayak tour with Southeast Expeditions in Chincoteague

Cabooses by Grassy Creek Cabooses in Fancy Gap

Cabins, pods, yurts, tipis and more at Explore Park in Roanoke County

Four Fabulous Restaurants That Are Worth the Drive

One of the best parts about traveling is often the food—finding a unique, local place to dine out while you are visiting another city.

To continue our celebration of food in this issue, we highlighted four restaurants in four Virginia cities that are worth your time—whether you’re staying for the weekend or just driving through.

The Daily Kitchen and Bar
2934 W Cary St., Richmond • thedailykitchenandbar.com
By Rachel Dalton

Richmond is one of my favorite cities—a place I used to call home.

Hop off Powhite Parkway and onto Cary Street at the top of Carytown, then head east until you see the green umbrellas just before the famous Byrd Theater. That’s your sign that it’s time to pull over and visit The Daily.

The Story
I’ve known owner Michelle Williams for years and have always admired her vision and tenacity when it comes to opening Richmond restaurants. She owns some of the best, including two locations of The Daily—which has a different feel and focus than her other dining spots.

Michelle and her team wanted a community space that felt like home—a space where one could visit often and choose healthy items from a menu that respects and includes all dietary needs. Also contributing to the vision, Michelle’s partner, Ted Wallof—who lives in Los Angeles—is a plant-based eater. They used his insight as well as knowledge about Michelle’s personal food allergies when opening The Daily.

The Spread
Their menu spans the gamut. Famous are the tacos, Brussels sprouts, and the massive selection of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free offerings.

Customers trust where the food comes from at The Daily and that it is the highest quality available. Michelle and Ted strongly support the local food industry and farmers and aim to keep prices affordable.

The Scene
“We wanted it to feel organic, clean and modern and somewhat minimalist,” says Michelle when describing the restaurant’s vibe.

You will see moss on the walls, imported from Italy, and petrified trees that came from the desert in California. Everything from the unique lighting to the comfortable seating to the expansive bar makes you want to linger a while, have another round, or invite more friends to join. Part of that is due to the warm staff that has been around since the beginning and who, in large part, are what make up the fabric of The Daily.

Other Richmond Restaurants to Try:
• The Roosevelt (nontraditional celebration of food of the South)
• Stella’s (modern Greek fare, including small plates)
• Comfort (updated Southern dishes and whiskey)
• Amuse (upscale American fare and craft cocktails)

Golden Leaf Bistro
215 Craghead St., Danville • www.goldenleafbistro.com
By Erin Thackston

Golden Leaf Bistro, located in Danville’s River District, combines Southern hospitality, seasonal flavors, and historic flair to provide an elegant dining experience with a community feel.

The Story
When husband and wife team Kimberly and William Gentry purchased and began to refurbish the Golden Leaf Tobacco Warehouse more than five years ago, they immediately saw potential. They had the perfect location, a spacious floor plan, and a community longing for an upscale eatery. They knew that with the help of the right team, they could make it work— and make it work they did! This July 17th will mark Golden Leaf Bistro’s fifth anniversary.

The Spread
Chef Alex Smith’s warm pimento cheese served with homemade porkskins is said to be worth the trip to Golden Leaf Bistro. For a true culinary treat, consider the 8oz aged filet mignon with cabernet peppercorn demi or the Angus ribeye—or choose from a variety of regional favorites like Cajun fried catfish, N’awlins chicken and shrimp, or Maryland crab cakes. The menu is refreshed up to four times a year to include seasonal items. Guests can expect this summer’s menu to include a lighter fare, with favorites such as mahi mahi and fried green tomatoes making a return. Best selling dishes such as Shrimp Bang Bang and blackened salmon wraps and seared ahi tuna remain on the menu year-round.

The Scene
Golden Leaf Bistro is located in a refurbished historic warehouse district within walking distance of historic warehouses-turned shops, residences, and businesses, as well as a community market, concert venue, and the Danville Science Center. Antique photographs, memorabilia, and artwork depicting Danville’s iconic historic landmarks don the restaurant’s interior, while a large open air patio is available for dining in the spring and summer, weather permitting, with live music on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. A full service bar, wine list, and seasonally rotating beer menu add to the casually elegant River District vibe.

Other Southern Virginia Restaurants to Try:
• Cotton at Riverside Mill in Danville (pizzas, burgers, and more with al fresco seating)
• Mucho in Danville (eclectic tequila bar serving fresh tacos)
• Bistro 1888 in South Boston (upscale, casual restaurant and bar)
• Molasses Grill in Halifax (Southern-inspired fine dining)

Terrapin Restaurant
3102 Holly Rd., Suite 154, Virginia Beach • www.terrapinvb.com
By Grace Silipigni

Situated just blocks from Virginia Beach’s famed Boardwalk is one of the city’s most sophisticated eateries whose seasonal, four-course menu boasts skillfully composed dishes embellished with fresh and locally-sourced ingredients.

The Story
The award-winning Terrapin Restaurant was founded in 2006 by third-generation restaurateur and Virginia Beach native, Rodney Einhorn. After preparing countless meals in kitchens as far west as Aspen, Colorado to the famed James Beard House in New York City, Chef Rodney returned home eager to unveil a restaurant that not only showcased his culinary mastery, but also promoted his commitment to keeping food local, fresh and sustainable.

The Spread
Since its conception, Chef Rodney and his team have crafted Terrapin’s beachside cuisine from the highest quality meats, vegetables and other gourmet fixings hand selected from Virginia farms. Although much of Terrapin’s menu changes with the harvest, it is anchored by three, year-round staples including a light and colorful three-beet salad and velvety truffle macaroni and cheese prepared with housemade pasta. The chief entrée features soft, seared scallops garnished with salty sea beans, fennel pollen and truffle sauce perched atop a bed of wild mushrooms and oven roasted tomatoes.

The Scene
While the meticulous food preparation that transpires in the Terrapin kitchen could rival that of even the most distinguished, five-star restaurant, Chef Rodney separates his bistro from the pompous nature of other upscale establishments by cultivating an approachable and hospitable fine dining experience. Terrapin’s main dining area is the perfect balance of trendy and relaxed. Abstract fixtures hang above sleek, black chairs tucked neatly beneath tables finished with reclaimed wood. Divided by the room’s textured panels stands a long, secluded bar top ideal for a casual cocktail. The restaurant also features an outdoor terrace complete with a canopy, ceiling fans and lounge-style seating.
The marriage of Terrapin’s superb spread, refined service and understated ambiance asserts the oceanfront eatery as a must-visit destination during your next coastal getaway.

Other Virginia Beach Restaurants to Try:
• Le Yaca (contemporary French restaurant)
• Commune (rustic-chic spot serving New American dishes)
• Catch 31 (fresh local fish and coastal comfort)
• 1608 Crafthouse (locally sourced New American fare with regional brews)

The River and Rail
2201 Crystal Spring Ave. SW, Roanoke • riverandrailrestaurant.com
By Rachel Dalton

Roanoke may be the quickest getaway for any Lynchburg local. Last year some friends introduced me to The River and Rail Restaurant in South Roanoke. Life has never been the same.

The Story
According to Chef Aaron Deal, the restaurant’s name refers to the once thriving rail industry and how Roanoke used to serve as the headquarters of Norfolk Southern.
“The Roanoke River runs through the area adding another element of commerce and notoriety to the town,” he explains. “The name River and Rail is intended to imply we are a Roanoke restaurant, existing because of these two defining aspects of Roanoke.”

The Spread
When it comes to the food, Chef Aaron enjoys changing the menu significantly four times a year in rhythm with the four seasons. But the menu also changes daily as they regularly source their ingredients from local farmers and artisans.

“We process most of our meat and seafood from whole, pickle, or preserve and we present things with a ‘From Scratch’ approach. This ideally makes everything we present distinctive in flavor,” he says.

Customers rave about the chicken liver mousse, oyster wraps and banana pudding. You will also want to try one of their cocktails. “The bartenders are producing bitters, shrubs and tinctures to use behind the stick,” he says. “They even cut their own ice!”

The Scene
The River and Rail is located in what used to be Lipe’s Pharmacy. To create the ambiance and sophisticated feel, Chef Aaron credits Sean Doherty of Doherty Interior Design for bringing the idea of a “refined, rustic atmosphere to life.”

What adds to the space is a dedicated, eager, and informed staff that operates like a well-oiled machine. When hiring, Chef Aaron likes when someone has an appreciation for food, wine and cocktails but says guest service is always number one.

Other Roanoke Restaurants to Try:
• Local Roots (locally sourced New American plates)
• Breadcraft (artisanal bakery serving specialty loaves and sandwiches)
• Lucky (farm-to-table eatery with Southern and global influences)
• Carlos Brazilian International Cuisine (international fine dining with a view of the Roanoke Valley)

Scenic Reminders of Days Gone By

Virginia is home to some of the most fascinating bridges in the world—from modern-day bridges spanning miles over coastal waters to historic covered bridges found in the rolling hills and highlands of the Commonwealth.

Covered bridges became popular in the United States during the 1800s when engineers began developing covered structural systems for increased strength and longevity. Weather conditions generated additional wear and tear, and covered bridges provided some protection from the elements.

Covered bridges were sometimes called “kissing bridges” during the modest era of the late 19th century, as the privacy from passing through a covered bridge would allow passengers in horse and buggy an opportunity to kiss each other unobserved.

While there are seven covered bridges in Virginia, only four are open to the public. These captivating structures are more than just wood and nails—they serve as a glimpse into our country’s history and culture. When you’re ready for a trip down memory lane (or bridge), plan a road trip to visit one or all of these charming covered bridges in Virginia.

Sinking Creek Bridge
The Sinking Creek Bridge was built in 1916 on VA Route 601 leading into the Clover Hollow section of Newport. Part of the Greater Newport Rural Historical District, the bridge was originally used for horse and buggy travel and is one of the few bridges in that area to survive more than a century.

In the fall of 1998, the Newport Village Council organized a restoration project to preserve the historic bridge. “After initial cleanup, new footings were poured to support the bridge, holes were repaired in the side walls, and a local volunteer painted the sides and roof of the bridge,” said Linda Kaiser, a Librarian and Archivist for the Giles County Historical Society. “The deteriorated asphalt walkway was removed, and a 47-foot brick walkway was constructed, including more than 225 engraved bricks to honor those who helped to restore the bridge.”

While you’re in the Newport area, some nearby attractions include the Andrew Johnston House, Cascade Falls, Palisades Cliffs and Restaurant, and Mountain Lake Resort. The Sinking Creek Bridge is also located near access for the Appalachian Trail for those wishing to hike, and canoeing and fishing opportunities are available on the New River.

Meems Bottom Bridge

Just south of the town of Mount Jackson, Meems Bottom Bridge is located on Wissler Road off U.S. Route 11. Originally built in 1894, the bridge is named for the Meem family who owned the Strathmore Estate west of the Shenandoah River where the bridge resides.

At 204 feet in length, Meems Bottom Bridge is the longest covered bridge in Virginia, and the only one that is still open to vehicular traffic. The construction of Meems Bottom Bridge is based on Burr Arch Truss—a design principle in which the arch bears the entire load of the bridge and the truss keeps the bridge rigid. The strength of this design has enabled the bridge to remain in use for more than 120 years.

However, the bridge has certainly seen its challenges over the years. Vandals set fire to it on Halloween in 1976—it was reconstructed after salvaging the original timbers. The bridge has also been damaged by oversized tractor trailers trying to squeeze through its limited clearance. VDOT has closed the bridge on several occasions to make necessary repairs. Shenandoah County is working with VDOT to find a solution and warn tractor trailers and oversized vehicles before it’s too late.

With its adjacent farmland and nearby picnic tables, Meems Bottom Bridge is a popular spot for visitors, especially those seeking a picturesque picnic spot. The bridge also offers public river access to those looking to float the Shenandoah.

“There are several other attractions located near Meems Bottom Bridge,” said Jenna French, Director of Tourism and Economic Development for Shenandoah County. “Bridgemont Farms is located on the property adjacent to the bridge itself. Shenandoah Caverns, Route 11 Potato Chips, Bryce Resort, and several local vineyards are nearby. For history fans, the Virginia Museum of the Civil War is also a short drive in the neighboring town of New Market.”

Woolwine Bridge

Patrick County is home to the 48-foot oak construction Jack’s Creek Covered Bridge, also known as the Woolwine Bridge. It was built in 1914 by Charles Vaughan and designed by Walter Weaver. The Patrick County government owns and maintains the bridge which is located on Jack’s Creek Road off State Route 8 just south of the community of Woolwine.

Open to pedestrians, Woolwine Bridge is nestled in the natural beauty of Virginia’s piedmont region. Visitors can sign the guest book located inside the bridge and enjoy the peaceful setting overlooking the Smith River.

The bridge is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and hosts the Covered Bridge Festival in June every year. The festival includes horse-drawn wagon rides, crafts, live music, food vendors, and entertainment.

“Patrick County has a lot to offer,” said Tourism Director Sandra Belcher. “Fairy Stone State Park is close by with cabins and camping sites with tons of hiking, fishing, swimming and boating. Or you can stay, dine, and enjoy the sights at the 5-star Primland Resort. Plus, Villa Appalachia and Stanburn are excellent local wineries.”

Humpback Bridge

Humpback Bridge is one of the oldest remaining covered bridges of its kind in the United States and the only covered bridge remaining in Alleghany County. Constructed in 1857, the design of the bridge is arched and covered—hence the name “humpback.” This nearly 110-foot structure spans a tributary of the Jackson River known as Dunlap Creek. The humpback feature is four feet higher in the center than at either end.

The bridge was used for vehicular traffic until 1929 when a steel truss bridge was constructed immediately north on Route 60. Humpback Bridge was abandoned, and local farmers began storing hay bales inside of it. In 1953, the Covington Business and Professional Women’s Club, the Virginia Department of Transportation, and area residents rallied together to restore the bridge.

Now a cherished landmark, the bridge is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and is designated a National Historic Landmark. Residents and visitors alike gather at the bridge for picnics, photos or simply to admire its beauty and craftsmanship. Humpback Bridge is also one of 16 sites across Virginia to display a giant LOVE sculpture.

“Fans of covered bridges come from all over the country to admire the historic Humpback Bridge,” said Teresa Hammond, Executive Director of the Alleghany Highlands Chamber of Commerce and Tourism. “It has been lovingly preserved and is now part of a five-acre wayside park, easily accessible from I-64 at Exit 10—follow Route 60 east for one mile.”

While you’re in Alleghany County, visit Clifton Forge and Covington for locally-owned shops and restaurants. Visitors also enjoy nearby sites such as Douthat State Park, Falling Spring Falls, the C&O Heritage Center, the Historic Masonic Theatre, the Alleghany Highlands Arts & Crafts Center, the Clifton Forge School of the Arts, the historic Alleghany County Courthouse and the 701 Engine in Downtown Covington. The iconic Homestead Resort is about 40 minutes away in Hot Springs.

It’s a frigid afternoon aboard the Atlantic Explorer, a 65-by-31-foot catamaran, capable of fitting a crew of 132 people over its two hulls, which provide a stable platform able to handle rougher conditions during storms with heavy seas. With no squall in sight, we bid ourselves bon voyage from the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center’s dock at Owl Creek in Virginia Beach, traversing Rudee Inlet and a fleet of yachts and fishing boats as well as bald eagles nested among the treetops and oysters strewn about the shores. But, we’ve embarked on this journey, led by the Virginia Aquarium’s staff of marine experts, to seek out a far more imposing species that calls the deep blue sea home—whales.

These Virginia Aquarium Sea Adventures Boat Trips, beginning at Thanksgiving and carrying on throughout the winter to early March, bring passengers up close with wildlife on the coast of Virginia Beach. “By allowing folks to have a personal connection and experience viewing these animals in their natural habitat, it inspires them to want to be able to do what they can to help,” explains Alexis Rabon, boat trip coordinator, who indicates that learning more about these creatures in a direct way enables us to do more to protect the environment and the animals themselves. A portion of the sales from Sea Adventures Boat Trips contributes to initiatives of the Virginia Aquarium to further its research and conservation efforts and the work of its Stranding Response Team.

Despite a wind chill and overcast skies, the conditions are ideal for catching a glimpse of whales today, as Atlantic Explorer makes haste beyond the 1st Street Jetty at the Oceanfront and between barges loaded with transatlantic freight headed to and from port. We’re not far offshore from the same beaches that host hoards of tourists in the summer months in the vacation destination; these migratory whales are seemingly right here in the resort city’s own backyard (or, if you will, backyard swimming pool). Last year the Sea Adventure Boat Trips yielded a 100 percent success rate for whale sightings, indicating an optimistic outlook and turnaround for certain whale species that were once considered endangered or critically vulnerable.

The most common whale species seen on these outings are humpback whales, measuring up to 52 feet and capable of weighing an upwards of 79,000 pounds.

The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) currently estimates that there are between 10,000 to 11,000 humpback whales in the North Atlantic Ocean, which have made a considerable comeback from the days when they tragically dwindled from whaling. However, while most humpback whales no longer need endangered species protection, researchers are still concerned with recent mortality rates within the area.

During these trips, spectators also might see steadfast and swift fin whales and minke whales, but they are more of a challenge for the naked eye due to their agility and breakneck speeds. The North Atlantic right whale can also make an appearance, though this is only during rare occasions due to its critically endangered status. Since whales are mammals, they must head to the surface to breathe air and exhale water from their blowholes, which is an opportune time for sightseeing before they plunge and hold their breath.

I’m at the bow of the ship in anticipation, giving myself a vantage point for anything that may emerge from the water, as we cruise to the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, with the 23-mile Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel on the horizon and the Cape Henry Lighthouse shining its beacon through the cloak of clouds. We come in contact with bottlenose dolphins, the sociable mascot of Virginia Beach and a focal point for the aquarium’s summertime Dolphin Discoveries Sea Adventures Boat Trip. By air, seabirds nosedive into the water, scourging their prey with their talons. Hours into our odyssey and the wishes for whales seem to slip by in the ocean, as though they were an elusive mariner’s mirage of our desires lost at sea.

Rabon shares with me that during the Sea Adventure Boat Trips the aquarium uses a designated data collector with a GPS unit, hitting a waypoint wherever there’s a viewing of a whale. Photo identification of individual animals helps their research and conservation division, which studies the whales’ migration patterns, their seasonal behaviors and how the waterways serve as supplemental feeding areas.

Though retracing these areas marked by these waypoints improves the prospects of seeing whales, it’s still a matter of dealing with Mother Nature.

As we circumnavigate back to the 1st Street Jetty and Croatan Beach, suddenly, we spot a whale’s footprint within the water, an indication of a breach of the surface where the flow of the ocean has been disrupted. The stench of dead fish fills the area, another telltale sign of a whale—it’s the smell of their breath carried in the air. The crew in its entirety, families and staff jump to the Atlantic Explorer’s railings—there they are, two stunning and majestic humpback whales, the colossus of the sea, a gentle giant peering its fins from the water composed of unequivocal gracefulness. I’m completely awestruck in the sheer enormity of seeing these creatures dwarf us in comparison. Buoying at the surface, water spouts like a geyser from their blowholes, draping the sea in a mist.

Humpback whales are a whale watcher’s dream, Rabon explains. They’re more surface active and acrobatic, as they dive down and plunge to the depths of the ocean and reemerge to spend time in our environment hunting and foraging. They’ll even echo songs to one another in an indication of their behavior. “We’re really lucky here in our area that we do get a chance to see so many of the different feeding stocks coming through,” Rabon shares.

In the warmer months of the year, North Atlantic humpback whales take provisions in the feeding grounds of the Gulf of Maine, Newfoundland and Labrador, and the Gulf of Saint Lawrence in Canada, Iceland, Western Greenland and Norway while ensuring their blubber stores are thick for the migration south during the winter. In their breeding grounds of the Caribbean Sea near the West Indies and Dominican Republic, they’re essentially fasting while they mate and give birth to their calves. Here in Virginia Beach though, there are both reproductively mature humpbacks that won’t breed every year and juveniles not yet ready to reproduce that are devouring their food source of krill and a variety of small fish.

At sundown, the two humpbacks we see frolic near the Atlantic Explorer vanish for a moment before a theatric reappearance. We keep observing for some time before the boat must head in for the day, returning a captivated crew with fortunate tales from our seafaring whale watching excursion.

Make your plans for your whale watching adventure at VirginiaAquarium.com

A getaway that provides history lessons, quiet retreat and (maybe) ghosts

The stately, eight-columned Greek Revival mansion at the heart of the Berry Hill Resort and Conference Center in South Boston is full of stories, and some say, ghosts.

Berry Hill easily falls into the category of “Virginia’s best kept secrets.” Tucked out of sight from main roads, a long oak-lined drive leads to the mansion in Halifax County, a mile from the Dan River.

The plantation, a National Historic Landmark, is increasingly a destination for weddings, as well as conferences and weekend getaways.

As you walk around the estate, it’s easy to imagine a bustling farm operation. With the labor of at least 200 documented slaves, and probably many more, the plantation produced great quantities of tobacco, corn, wheat, oats, hay and livestock.

Remains of old stone slave quarters are scattered across the property, a poignant reminder of the people who made plantations possible. The French company that restored the estate to its former grandeur intentionally left the quarters in ruins to represent the crumbled institution of slavery, says Lealand Luck, the mansion’s 79-year-old tour guide.

The 650-acre property is part of an original 105,000-acre land grant given to William Byrd II, who surveyed the land between North Carolina and Virginia.

One of the better-known owners was Benjamin Harrison, one of the first governors of Virginia and signer of the Declaration of Independence. His son became the 9th president and grandson the 23rd president of the United States.

In 1769, Isaac Coles purchased the property, which had dwindled to 1,020 acres, and willed it to his nephew Gen. Edward Carrington, who built the first plantation house, with two “mini-mansions” on either side, around 1770.

The most significant history of the place, though, belongs to the Bruce family, the only family to live in the current mansion.

James Bruce was a pioneer in what were essentially chain stores providing needed merchandise to farmers and residents scattered throughout rural Virginia. Between 1802 and 1837, he owned or was the dominant partner in 12 country stores, several flour mills, a fertilizer-plaster factory, a commercial blacksmith shop, several lumber yards, a cotton factory and two taverns. He also owned 16 plantations and nearly 1,000 slaves.

When he died in 1837, James Bruce was the third wealthiest man in America, with an estate valued at nearly $3 million.

But it was his son, James Cole Bruce and his wife, Elizabeth “Eliza” Wilkins Bruce, who were responsible for creating the current mansion around 1840.

The mansion was literally built around the 1770 house and is stuccoed on three sides, leaving the back of the original house visible. A significant number of slaves would have been needed to construct and maintain the 17-room mansion, which took seven years to build.

Lealand Luck, a retired Halifax County agriculture teacher, has been giving tours since 1999, when AXA, a French insurance company, bought the estate and poured $33 million into the renovation of the mansion and the construction of an 88-room hotel and conference center.

AXA built the retreat for its executives, but in 2001, after the bombing of the World Trade Center, they abandoned the project. Several owners later, Dr. Charles Edwards, a spine surgeon from Baltimore, Md., is determined to keep the resort going with the help of 50 employees.

Luck credits Eliza Bruce for choosing the mansion’s model, the Second Bank of the U.S. in Philadelphia, Pa.

“She was a very particular woman about symmetry and balance,” Luck said, pointing out keyholes that don’t actually lock and doors that open into walls.

As visitors enter the front door, centered between the eight massive columns, they are greeted by a truly spectacular horseshoe-shaped staircase, one of less than a handful in the country. The mahogany railings grow shorter as you climb. The lack of visible support for the stairs has puzzled architects for decades.

Only two pieces of original furniture remain in the mansion, and they are centered in front of the staircase, a small marble-topped table and a chandelier that once burned whale oil.

The house, though, is elegantly furnished with period pieces and the original marble, which came from the same quarry in Italy where Michelangelo found the marble for his famous sculpture of David.

To the right of the entrance was originally the master bedroom, an unusual way to greet visitors. The room now serves as part of the Carrington Restaurant, which provides upscale dining Friday through Monday.

Upstairs are three guest bedrooms decorated as they might have been when the mansion was built, with the addition of indoor plumbing.

Indoor plumbing definitely messed up some of the symmetry of the mansion, and I speculated that Eliza might have been one of the ghosts who returned to haunt it.

But Luck said James Cole Bruce was so distraught when his wife died that he went to weep over her grave night after night, begging her to come back to him, even as a spirit. She never did.

Luck, however, believes there are other ghosts in the mansion.

“I hear footsteps,” he said. “I don’t like coming here at night. It’s spooky. The more you think about it, the worse it gets.”

Frederick Watkins, the car dealer who bought the estate in the 1950s, spent only a few hours in the mansion one night, and was chased out by a “lady ghost,” Luck said.

Sometimes water will run for 10 minutes in the middle of the night when no one is there, servant bells will ring and visitors’ shoes get moved, he said.

Having never seen a ghost, my travel partner Michael and I decided to return to the mansion for a nighttime visit, but it was bustling with people preparing for a wedding.

We ran into one worker who told us he had never seen a full-blown apparition, but saw shadows he couldn’t explain, as well as orbs that aren’t visible but appear on camera. He pulled out his phone to show us glowing white balls floating in the air along a back staircase.

Another photo was taken in Darby’s Tavern, now a pub and restaurant where we had eaten a tasty dinner of crab cake and jambalaya. The worker said he was renovating one of the rooms on a hot day when he suddenly felt an icy blast near his leg. He saw nothing, but took a photo that revealed an orb.

Michael and I headed upstairs to a darkened parlor and sat quietly on a corner loveseat. Our photos didn’t turn up any orbs, but we soon heard young people from a wedding party ascending the stairs and admiring the portraits in the hallway.

A young woman entered the room with her back to us, switched on the light. As she turned and saw us, she let out a blood-curdling scream. We couldn’t stop laughing. The groom came in and toasted us. “That was the best prank ever,” he said.

We had bumped into the groom’s mother, Becky Trkula of Fairfax, several times during the day of our September visit. At breakfast the next morning, the tale of our haunting was the primary topic of conversation.

Trkula said they learned about Berry Hill from a friend of the bride and couldn’t be happier with the choice.

“I think it’s a perfect place for a wedding,” she said. “The staff could not be more pleasant, accommodating and willing to help. I would call it an above-perfect venue.”

Berry Hill features 93 rooms furnished with antiques and sleigh beds or four-posted beds. A European spa, both fine and casual dining, hiking, swimming, tennis, biking, fishing and a variety of outdoor games including bocce, croquet and horseshoes are available.

Berry Hill Resort is located at 3105 River Road, South Boston. Call 434-517-7000 or visit berryhillresort.com for more information.