Four Great Winter Getaways

Embrace the season with epicurean adventures centered around epic inns and great mountain towns

By Eric J. Wallace

Nothing beats the cold-season blues like a scenery-packed trip to a superlative inn or cottage in a fantastic mountain town. The heady combo of high-elevation vistas, breezy adventure, luxe amenities, and killer food and drink at noteworthy local hotspots makes it easy to flip the script on cabin fever.

But as a connoisseur of the upscale retreat, I know that crafting the perfect itinerary isn’t always so easy. Here, I nix the guesswork and give you four of my favorite nearby mountain escapes.

PARIS

The tiny village of Paris is nestled on a former wagon corridor just east of Sky Meadows State Park and about a mile from the Appalachian Trail crossing at Ashby Gap. It’s peppered with gorgeous, Colonial-era homes and rolling, stone-wall-lined pastures that, if you blink, will make you swear you’re in the English countryside.

Where To Stay:
The Ashby Inn dates to 1829 and occupies a two-story, white-washed stucco colonial ensconced by ivy and century-old boxwoods. It holds 10 uniquely appointed rooms furnished with antiques like mahogany wardrobes, repurposed oil lamps and ornately carved fireplace surrounds. Historic themes are balanced by modern amenities like hammered copper sinks, Jacuzzi tubs, luxe mattresses and skylights. A gourmet brunch comes with the stay. ashbyinn.com

Eat, Drink, Play:
Take a scenic, 15-minute drive to taste seriously world-class vino at Lost Mountain Vineyards. Tour a state-of-the-art mixing lab and hundred-yard-long cellar bored into the granite bedrock beneath a large, western lodge style tasting room. Wine fleets include offerings from four Bordeaux region sister wineries but center around astounding estate red blends like Effluvium and Lost Mountain. lostmountainvineyards.com

Hike to the Piedmont Memorial Overlook in Sky Meadows State Park. Follow a .6-mile namesake trail from the Boston Mill parking lot to a 1,500-foot meadow with soaring eastward views of Paris and the upper Crooked Run Valley. dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/sky-meadows

The Ashby’s eponymous fine-dinery is housed in a timber-framed, 1860s addition off the lobby. Executive chef Carlos Leon crafts seasonal menus defined by Caribbean nods and a classic French approach to New Southern cuisine. Splurge on a five-course prix fixe dinner punctuated by a hit parade of tastebud exploding plates like a Luxardo cherry infused carrot chutney topped with seared foie gras and served in a pool of reduced Pedro Ximénez sherry.

LITTLE WASHINGTON / SPERRYVILLE

The charming Blue Ridge Mountain village is perched in a high, pastoral plateau seven miles east of equally nifty Sperryville and about a dozen from Shenandoah National Park. Taken collectively, the small but mighty communities yield a treasure trove of beautifully restored historic homes and buildings, niche fine dineries, art galleries and celebrated craft spirits makers.

Where to Stay:
Little Washington’s Blue Rock Inn & Restaurant combines boutique, mountain-chic elegance and soaring views of the surrounding mountains and vineyards. Five stately rooms are dispersed throughout a sprawling and immaculately renovated, white stucco plantation farmhouse that dates to the 1850s and is centered by a cocktail lounge with soft seating and a windowed cast iron woodstove.

Rooms are uniquely designed and filled with touches like custom wallpaper, vaulted ceilings, canopy beds and opulent baths. Epicure-grade breakfast-in-bed is included. bluerockva.com

Eat, Drink, Play:
Try wildly unique wild-fermented beers and ciders at Pen Druid Brewing.

Its fruity, funky concoctions are crafted using historic Belgian methods like wood-fired kettle brewing and bottle conditioning. pendruid.com

Pioneering spirits-maker Copper Fox Distillery helped put dirt-to-glass American single malt on the map. Sip award-winning whiskies sourced from area farmers and malted with smoke from locally harvested fruitwoods in an overhauled historic stable on the North Fork Thornton River. copperfoxdistillery.com

Take a six-mile spin on Skyline Drive to jaw-dropping, 3,000-plus-foot panoramas of the town of Luray and greater Page Valley from the Pinnacles and Jewel Hollow overlooks. visitskylinedrive.org

The Restaurant at Blue Rock is helmed by former Inn At Little Washington protégé Aaron Bachoon. His wine-paired, five-course prix fixe tasting menus blend Trinidadian touchstones and Southern influences inspired by star chef and mentor Patrick O’Connell. Playful dishes like a (radically upscaled) bacon, egg and cheese raviolo, for instance, may preface a seared halibut roulade stuffed with apple parsnip puree and served in a spicy coconut curry.

ORANGE

The 5,000-person town is nestled along the base of the sparsely developed Southwest Mountain range some 30 miles northeast of Charlottesville. Constitution Highway runs through the main drag of a bustling historic downtown area studded with an array of fun and funky boutique shops, eateries, and drink spots.

Where To Stay:
Find the Inn at Willow Grove a few miles from town in a grandiose, brick Federal style manor that was built in 1787 and received a significant addition in 1848. The national historic landmark got a multimillion dollar facelift in the early 2010s that brought a swanky, chef-driven restaurant and bar, spa area and half-dozen guest rooms in the main building.

The latter are great, but the nine, suite-style cottages spread around a stunningly landscaped rear courtyard and garden complex shine. You get amenities like roofed private porches, cozy great rooms with gas fireplaces and granite-countered kitchenettes, stone-tiled bathrooms and more. innatwillowgrove.com

Eat, Drink, Play:
A bounty of breweries and wineries can be found in and around Orange. Craft beer connoisseurs will delight in downtown’s divey and vibey Iron Pipe Alewerks. ironpipealewerks.com

Oenophiles should take a scenic southward drive through historic Albemarle County horse-and-hunt country to sample bucket list vintages at Barboursville Vineyards. Vanguard estate director Luca Paschina produces internationally renowned wines like the flagship Octagon red blend and 2023 Vermentino—which were both included in this year’s Governor’s Cup top 12 case. While you’re there, enjoy a sumptuous lunch at the fabulous Palladio Restaurant. bbvwine.com

Head to Virginia Table at Early Mountain Vineyards for insanely good vino-paired small plates and shareables in a French chateau-style tasting room with views of Shenandoah National Park. Former Inn at Little Washington sous chef, Tim Moore, couples delicately curated seasonal tastes—like a cubed potato rösti served in champagne cream sauce and topped with chives and Kaluga caviar—with selections from a critically acclaimed 15-wine menu. The latter ranges from staples like cabernet franc to adventurous single varietal takes on petit manseng or tannat. earlymountain.com

AFTON MOUNTAIN

The Shenandoah Valley gateway community unfolds across a namesake mountainside on the border of Albemarle and Nelson counties and sits within five minutes of entrances to both the Blue Ridge Parkway and Shenandoah National Park. Bisected by the Nelson 151 Craft Beverage Trail, it makes a perfect basecamp for exploring the area’s rich gastronomical wealth and natural beauty.

Where To Stay:
Pick from a quintet of modern farmhouse style luxury cottages at Afton Mountain Vineyards. Units unfurl across a thousand-foot hillside and boast private porches and oversized front windows with 180-degree views of the property and surrounding Blue Ridge. One-roomers include spacious living areas with stone-countertop-equipped kitchenettes, vaulted ceilings, hardwood floors and gas fireplaces. Bedrooms hold premium king mattresses and lavish, subway-tiled baths with glass walk-in showers. aftonmountainvineyards.com

Eat, Drink, Play:
Start with a farm-sourced charcuterie board and vino-sampler in the window-surrounded tasting room at Afton Mountain Vineyards. Everything winemaker Damien Blanchon makes is exceptional, but recent Governor’s Cup gold medal winners like the Bordeaux-style red, 2019 T, and 2022 Albariño are showstoppers.

Take a 25-mile cruise on designated scenic byway Nelson 151, which breezes through the bucolic Rockfish Valley and is lined by 13 award-winning cideries, breweries and distilleries. Have pints by a blazing hearth or fire pit at standouts like Bryant’s Cider & Brewery or Three Notch’d Beer & Bourbon. nelson151.com

Indulge grand finale grade fine-dining at The Farmhouse Restaurant at Veritas Vineyards. The eatery occupies the first floor of a multi-winged and gorgeously renovated colonial vernacular style 1839 farmhouse. Chef Cody McGehee dishes up locally sourced and Southern-leaning, four-course prix fixe dinners that feature and are paired with Virginia wines. veritasfarmhouse.com