Exploring Virginia’s Wild Culinary Frontier
Foraging and Food Forests Resurge as Locavore Trends Take Root
By Lindsey Cline-Shrader
Virginia’s lush landscapes contain a cornucopia of edible treasures. Like much of our evolving local food system, the art of foraging has undergone a renaissance, capturing the imaginations of foodies, homesteaders, and environmentalists. From upscale eateries’ haute cuisine to grassroots gatherings, foraging offers culinary delights and a pathway to health and sustainability—and, of course, this path sparks debate.
In modern culture, foraging has resurged with every back-to-the-land movement starting in the 1930s, 1960s, and early 2000s when, rather than subsidizing, foraging joined a broader movement of sustainable food systems and permaculture design. The current ease of information sharing is building a new generation of wild food advocates. Foraging experts and online influencers like Alexis Nikole and Gabrielle Cerberville translate in-depth wild food knowledge into quick, digestible videos for their respective 1.7 million and 359,000 Instagram followers.
Viewers already educated in the flaws of a chemical-heavy industrial food system are ready for the good news. While more people get outside to taste and test, a growing awareness of responsible foraging practices has taken root.
Wild ramps are the poster child for a well-loved and occasionally over harvested wild food. In early spring, this edible onion carpets the forest floor of the Blue Ridge and Allegheny Mountains. Ramps are prized for their unique flavor profile, which adds a spicy, earthy depth to dishes. For decades, foragers and chefs were beckoned to the hills to bring ramps to high-end restaurants in DC and beyond.
While ramps often grow in patches of hundreds, they take up to seven years to produce flowers and several more years for the seeds to germinate. This slow growth, coupled with their particular growing conditions, led West Virginia to ban harvesting in many parks and recreation areas as wild populations began to disappear. Responsible harvesting now includes taking a leaf or two from large plants and rarely, if ever, harvesting bulbs.
The lesson from ramps has led some farmers and gardeners to revive the concept of sustainable cultivated food forests. This ancient practice, a lesson from Native American culture and cultivation practices, means planting in multiple layers, which builds an ecosystem and creates more food per cubic foot. For example, a canopy top layer might consist of nut trees like oak and chestnut, followed by understory fruit trees like pawpaw and persimmon, interplanted with berry bushes like elderberry and blueberry. The herbaceous and ground-cover layers can include your favorite hardy edible perennials like wild strawberries, asparagus, rhubarb, sorrel, Jerusalem artichokes, mayapples, or wild violets.
My food forest would first and foremost contain yaupon holly, the only caffeinated plant that grows wild in Virginia and across the South. Yaupon seems to be a lightly caffeinated wonder plant full of antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and theophylline and theobromine, the “pleasure molecules.”
Since it’s locally grown, yaupon has a smaller carbon footprint and causes less environmental stress compared to coffee farms. Project Communitea, a Richmond-based company, grows and sells yaupon tea regionally and online.
Treasures like the pawpaw, a custard-like fruit, tempt some palates (and decidedly not others) with their creamy sweetness. Despite their delicious fruit, pawpaws refuse to submit to the conventional horticultural industry. The first challenge lies in their flowers, which emit a faint musky odor that fails to attract many critical pollinators for fruit production. Additionally, the fruit’s delicate nature makes it unsuitable for shipping and storage, limiting its commercial viability.
Thus, pawpaws remain wild, found in thickets along bottomlands and streamsides, leaving us to celebrate and preserve wild populations and enjoy the fruits where we find them. Or, for the adventurous, to cultivate pawpaw trees in gardens. If this entices you, remember that pawpaws are dioecious, so you’ll need both male and female trees for fruit set and pollination. Edible Landscaping in Nelson County grows and sells pawpaw trees and a variety of edible plants.
Beyond this hidden gem, more commonly found herbs and plants offer nutritional value right outside your door. The humble dandelion, often considered a nuisance, reveals its charm in everything from teas and tinctures to infused oils, syrups, and vinegar. Roots can be stored in a dirt-filled basket in a shed or basement to provide a steady supply of greens throughout winter.
Dried, mature leaves make a medicinal tea full of vitamins A, C, and K and many minerals. The bloom is the main ingredient in dandelion wine, for which there are nearly as many recipes as winemakers.
Other flavorful and spicy greens include the common horseweed, which can be thrown into salads or blanched and added to soups. Chickweed grows abundantly in moist, shaded areas and can be eaten fresh or brewed into a tea for soothing medicinal properties.
While it’s easy to dismiss wild food as lackluster, renowned chef René Redzepi proved that foraged foods hold their own. He prioritized indigenous ingredients in his culinary creations and earned three Michelin stars for his Danish restaurant, Noma.
Chefs like Alan Bergo, a former chef in fine-dining restaurants, left the kitchen to write the popular The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora, which eventually spawned a TV show and earned a James Beard award.
Virginia’s landscape offers edible wonders waiting to be discovered and savored. The resurgence of foraging in our evolving local food scene reflects a broader cultural shift toward sustainability and connection with the land. Let’s hope the allure of wild foods continues to inspire us to revere and appreciate nature’s bounties.
