The Transportive Power of the James River Batteau Festival
By Emily Mook | Photos Courtesy of Holt Messerly & Faye Smith
There are no right or wrong answers to the question, “What makes Lynchburg Lynchburg?” but the annual James River Batteau Festival (JRBF) is undoubtedly a compelling and comprehensive candidate. It is integral to Lynchburg’s history and culture, it bridges Lynchburg’s past and present in both tangible and intangible ways, and it inspires enthusiastic participation in many and an impressive level of dedication in some. Since the inaugural JRBF in 1986, this annual living history reenactment has evolved to allow for advancements and increased community involvement while also staying true to its roots. This effort to strike a balance between tradition and innovation is much like a batteau’s journey down the James River: a delicate dance that requires collaboration, patience, diligence, fortitude, passion, and adaptability. This year’s Festival, which will run from June 15 through June 22, promises to be another dynamic celebration of Lynchburg’s history and of the river that runs through it.
The James River was the site of the first permanent English colony at Jamestown in 1607 and is recognized by Congress as the founding river of the United States. Incidentally, the James is also the founding river of Lynchburg.
“Lynchburg started as a depot for storing goods to be shipped on the batteaux and later the canal down to the markets in Richmond,” explains Robert Campbell, Upper James Senior Manager of the James River Association and longtime JRBF participant. “Over the years a settlement grew up on the hillside above the James where John Lynch ran his ferry across to the north bank on the Amherst County side. This little spot would eventually become Lynchburg, and it all had to do with geography and its position by the river.”
JRBF’s 120-mile, eight-day journey from Lynchburg to Richmond is full of visible reminders of the James River’s rich history.
“There are aqueducts spread down the River which are beautiful examples of stonework from the early 1800s and which carried the canals over the creeks and rivers entering the James,” notes Ralph Smith, Owner of High Peak Sportswear and former Festival Chairman (a position he held for 15 years). “There are also multiple sluices, which are places where the batteaumen—many of whom were slaves—cleared the rocks in particularly shallow places in the River. Many of these sluices are still functional today and are the only way to get a batteau around a ledge or shallow.”
It is important to recognize that many African American men—both enslaved and free—operated the batteaux that made Lynchburg the large city that it is today.
“In January 1854, Frank Padget, a slave and head boatman, lost his life in the process of saving others after the canal boat Clinton’s tow rope broke in the flooded James River at Balcony Falls,”
says Diane Easley, Archivist for the VA Canals and Navigations Society. “Lynchburg resident Sydnor Royall was on the Clinton and successfully swam to shore. Sam Evans, another African American boatman, rescued the rescue party the day after Frank Padget drowned. We need to appreciate the work these men did and learn more about their lives.”
Batteaux are 45 to 50 feet long, six to eight feet wide, flat-bottomed boats made of white oak. They are stored in lakes and ponds and kept submerged underwater to preserve the wood. Campbell, Smith, and Easley have all led or been part of batteau building crews.
Building and operating batteaux are no simple feats, but dedicated crews happily take on these arduous tasks for JRBF year after year.
“Maneuvering a boat that large and heavy using the same methods that would have been used in the 1700s is truly a unique skill in this world that only a few have mastered,” Campbell remarks. “Wooden poles are used to give the boat momentum and on the other side of that to help slow the boat down. Large sweeps at each end of the boat are used to maneuver the vessel as it shoots through rapids. Batteaux cannot take too many big hits on rocks, so the whole idea is to navigate through a rapid—however long, narrow, curvy or shallow it may be—without having the batteau strike a rock. It is extremely challenging, but for those of us who like a challenge, it is a truly amazing thing to take part of.”
Luckily, when hiccups inevitably occur during the Festival, many hands are on deck to assist.
“More times than I can count, batteaux have gotten hung up on the rocks of this rapid [Goosby Falls] and required sometimes 40 people to be in the water to free the boat,” Smith says. “It’s a great sense of community and nobody needs to be asked to help.”
Although traveling by batteau makes for the most authentic Festival experience, “a trip down the James is great no matter what boat you’re in,” as Campbell says. Those looking for a more laid-back experience may choose to travel by canoe or kayak and to join for a day or two rather than the full eight days. After launching near Percival’s Island, the batteaux and accompanying boats travel to a new camp each day, located respectively in Stapleton, Bent Creek, Wingina, Howardsville, Scottsville, Slate River, Cartersville, and Maidens Landing.
JRBF’s singular sense of community is further bolstered by shared meals and stories and impromptu concerts at the camps and on the River.
“One of the hidden gems of the festival is the fantastic, authentic music that usually comes out while a couple batteaux are hiding in a creek on the side of the James River underneath a 250-year-old aqueduct that has better acoustics than a lot of famous music halls,” notes Campbell. “Those are some of the magical moments that happen while we’re on the River that can never be planned, but end up being as perfect and unique as they are elusive and irreplaceable.”
Of course, in order to provide a framework for these serendipitous moments, the Festival itself must be meticulously planned. Longtime leaders and innovators are looking to the next generation to take the helm. Easley works closely with Dr. William E. Trout III, the Founder of the VA Canals and Navigations Society and one of the founders of the Festival, and she observes that “as we are coming up on the 40th anniversary of the JRBF, we need to recruit younger people for it to continue another 40 years.”
Fortunately, this necessary passing of the torch is already well underway. Smith’s two sons are both longtime participants in the Festival, and his eldest son is the co-founder of the James River Batteau Company.
“My son Will, along with his close friend Will Cash, started the James River Batteau Company in 2022,” Smith remarks. “They give tours out of Scottsville on batteaux. The business is doing very well, and they were booked for most of last summer. I always dreamed of finding a way to make a living being a batteauman but thought it was impossible. But now my son and his friend are actually making it happen, which is tremendously exciting and gratifying for me.”
JRBF’s success is a direct reflection of the people who plan, run, and participate in it with care—perhaps confirming that what ultimately makes Lynchburg Lynchburg is the people.
“The people who gather to run the river every year are some of the most amazing people that you’ll ever meet,” Campbell says. “There are people from all walks of life. We all put our lives aside for a week to run these big boats down the River with our friends and family and experience living history. We are all in it together while we’re out there. We look out for each other, help each other off of rocks, and help repair each other’s boats, and we laugh and have a good time while we’re doing it!”
